Vintage DD turntables. Are we living dangerously?


I have just acquired a 32 year old JVC/Victor TT-101 DD turntable after having its lesser brother, the TT-81 for the last year.
TT-101
This is one of the great DD designs made at a time when the giant Japanese electronics companies like Technics, Denon, JVC/Victor and Pioneer could pour millions of dollars into 'flagship' models to 'enhance' their lower range models which often sold in the millions.
Because of their complexity however.......if they malfunction.....parts are 'unobtanium'....and they often cannot be repaired.
128x128halcro
Lewm,

Absolutely, the top end of the late 70's DD era will never be repeated, and many of them are still very viable contenders when it comes to proper high fidelity. The limiter is finding them in unabused condition, and knowing a good service tech if anything needs doing. Beyond this, with careful design one can build a vinyl front end comparable to any very costly current piece. I have a DP80 also, which I will base my next TT on, after the TTS 8000 is fully finished. This so rewarding when it works well.. 

Glad you may have got the Victor sorted, good work finding the fault by your guy.. 
PBN, Was reading your instructions to Aigenga with interest, since I think I may have a go at cleaning and lubricated the bearing in my unit, once I get it back.  Seems to me that loosening the plug, which I assume means turning it counter-clockwise, would have the effect of lowering the bearing/spindle/platter such that the outer edge of the platter might ultimately rub against the escutcheon that surrounds the upper level circuitry and the tachometer and switches.  "Tightening" the plug, which would make it move upward into the chassis, would seem to me to be the way to relieve that condition.  This, I think, is the opposite of what you wrote.  However, since you may have worked this out with your TT101 right in front of you, I am thinking that maybe I do not understand the anatomy of the TT101.  Please by all means correct me if I am wrong in my concept of the relationships among these structural elements.
Thanks.
Lewm, 

All the DD motors I've worked on, except the DP80, are made like this, the bottom cap that also holds the thrust plate for the bearing are used to adjust the rotor up / down with, which of course moves the platter up and down with it.  If you screw this one too far in the the rotor can rub against the top cover of the motor.  Of course this works in reverse too of you don't screw it in far enough the rotor can rub against the bottom cover of the motor as well.  

What I do on all the tables I refurbish, which is quite a few by now,  is to tighten the plug so the the rotor seats on the top bushing then back it of 1/4 turn before sealing it in place.

Hope this clarifies the matter.  


Good Listening

Peter
In addition to the DP80, the SP10MK2 and 3 don't have any height adjustment via the bearing either.


Good Listening


Peter 
Dear Peter,
Forgot about the rotor, which would be a fixed to the bearing/spindle assembly.  Thanks.  My Kewood L07D is built like that as well, perhaps this is common to all coreless motors that more or less copies of the original Dual coreless motor.  

JP is satisfied that my unit is ready to be returned to me, on Monday.