Sources for information and/or advice on dedicated AC lines desired
I have relocated, and the new house will allow me to at long last have dedicated AC power lines in the music listening room. Halleluiah! I’ve seen the topic discussed over the years, and have a general idea of what is needed, but can I get recommendations of sources of information about the details of what the optimum power and wiring system is, and exactly what to have done by a professional electrician (in the event that is necessary) to achieve it? And/or personal advice on wiring and power sources (excluding power conditioners---I mean just raw power. I already have Shunyata and Bybee units for conditioning) required for optimum sound quality? For instance:
- How many separate lines from the main panel to the room? Separate lines for sources vs. amps, analog vs. digital? My system sources are LP, analog tape, digital, and FM radio. Three tube pre-amps, a couple of tube and three SS power amps. And ESL speakers and powered subs also needing AC, of course.
- Amperage advisable for each line? 20 Amps?
- What to look for to determine if the already-installed wire is sufficient? And if it is not, the type and gauge of wire to have installed? 10g Romex?
- Grounding---metal rod into the earth?
- Anything else of concern not listed above.
Thanks for any recommendations of sources of information. Personal recommendations and/or advice also welcomed!
@bdp24 for what it’s worth, I recently completed a similar project. My electrician installed a 20A circuit breaker/line at the bottom of the panel far away from large appliances and anything on a dimmer. All existing wires and cables exit through the top of the breaker box. For the dedicated line he exited directly through the side of the box with Southwire Romex 10-2 wire. He kept the wire run completely isolated. The run enters a junction box and two Southwire Romex 10-2 wires then make their way into two Furutech GTX-D (R) wall receptacles. I have an amp and phono pre occupying the two outlets on the left receptacle and my turntable occupying one outlet on the right receptacle. Regarding grounding, nothing additional was installed or done. The electrician grounded the line with the existing house ground. there is a noticeable difference in noise floor, dynamics and less line level noise. These particular outlets take quite a while to break in. Some suggest 600-800 hours. good luck with your planning/install. |
Ghost- I’ve used Albert’s outlets and they are good, in fact, I think he sells them cheaper than some of the standard Hubbells; on the pump snap, yes, I have a pretty large air compressor for my tone arm, and even the smaller one that came with it originally (a 1/2 HP Silentaire) made a NASTY snap through the signal path when the motor kicked in and out. Simply putting it on a dedicated line didn’t eliminate it, neither did an aftermarket device-- a small box-- wired into compressor motor. What saved me was an isolation transformer. No compressor pump snap over the system when that sucker kicks on (and I upgraded to a 1 HP compressor with a 13 gallon tank). You don’t even have to use "audiophile approved" ones- I have several, one is a 240 volt step down that was originally used for my home theatre (which I don’t use anymore for that), but another is a medical grade unit branded by Tripp Lite that has a 15 amp breaker- it hums, but it is my adjacent closet so with soundproofing, you don’t hear it at all. (Right now, i am only running 1 of the 2 motors, so 1/2 horsepower- when that mother kicks on with both motors, it really draws current. Not the kind of thing you normally want anywhere near an audio system). |
Hi Whart...is this the Tripp Lite unit you mentioned? http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-IS1000-Isolation-Transformer/dp/B00006HPFI To clarify about what I was describing (hopefully this will be of value to BDP, too) ... it's not an audio related pump but rather the house heating system heat pump coming on and causing a very brief voltage sag that the APC corrects. Fortunately, no noise is heard through the audio system when this happens. Funny though, a nearby closet light switch on a totally separate circuit WILL cause a nasty snap audible through the system if it's turned on while the gear is powered up. Put a piece of tape over the switch as a reminder and I just don't flip it when the system is on. |
Ghost, no if you go to the Tripp Lite home page, and search for medical isolation transformers, you will see what they offer- mine is an 1800, I think, comes with both a 20 amp and 15 amp plug. Not as cheap as the one you flagged, but not crazy money- I think around 600 US. Here it is: [url]http://www.tripplite.com/isolator-series-120v-1800w-ul60601-1-medical-grade-isolation-transformer-6-...[/url] Yes, I realized you were talking about a heat pump that had no direct relationship to your system. Notwithstanding dedicated lines, separate subpanel, etc. there are a couple of lights and appliances in my house that when operating, can be heard through the system, and my solution is the same as yours- Don’t throw that switch! :) |
