2. amps-preamps
  3. 125094-1644

The best separates between $2500-3000. Moving on from the original Rogue Sphinx Intg..

I have decided  NOT to upgrade the original  Rogue Sphinx integrated amp to its new version.  Therefore, I would humbly ask for recommendations for  the best separates in the $2500-3000 range. I would prefer the same brand pre-amp and power amp, but will consider mixed brands.

My requirements are basic: at least 150-175 RMS; a simple "quality" remote with a mute switch and smoothly calibrated volume control.  Pre-amp Out ( optional) feature;.  A good headphone stage;  A good to VG phono stage, BUT  CAN forego in favor of a good  phono box.. .

I DON'T WANT OR NEED:  an onboard DAC for streaming audio files  ; processor loops, or subwoofer inputs and outputs HT inputs and outputs;  class D amp

Because of the plethora of new pre-amps with the features I don't want, I might consider older "quality" pre-amps without the bells and whistles. However, I AM NOT interested in  so called   "upgraded" vintage  or refurbished" crap from 20-30 years ago. I recently got burned on a refurbished and marginally upgraded turntable. My mistake.  Thank you for your advice 

  

sunnyjim
sunnyjim OP
927 posts
 

To Almarg and others, I missed your e-mails about the NuPrime ST-10 amp and actually responded, but it was not posted. Something must be screwed up with AG's thread and posting system

To Almarg, I got an a definite answer from Rogue HQ today about the Sphinx integrated variable output line, they call a "pre-out".  If I connect  a separate power amp to line 3 which is a variable output, the amp must have a input impedance of 10,000 ohms or more. The reason is this: the front panel function DO NOT go through the two tubed output stage of the Sphinx pre-amp, but through a special op-amp that allows the use of the volume and balance control, and also the phono input and CD input. The phono has it own line marked phono, so lines 1 and 2 are available for a CD player or tuner which I have

I was also informed by the Rogue tech that the sound may not be quite as good through the op-amp device,, but he also claimed the op-amp is a very good device. I am not sure what that means because I know nothing about op-amps, their function, or their quality rating.  However it is worth taking a shot at it whatever amp I decide.  The Odyssey Stratos Plus is high on the list..

However, if the sound is equal  to what I have, or only marginally better, or worse, inferior to what I have, I will then hunt for a new pre-amp.  BTW, about a year ago, I replaced the two stock tubes in the Sphinx output stage with Mullard CV4003 tubes. This was based on the recommendation by a member who also had a Rogue Sphinx.  The purpose was reduce some of the edge and bright tinge that is part of the sound because of Hypex Class D amp. It worked, but did not reduce all of the edginess or glare.  

Al, or others, your thoughts and comments on the op-amp use in the Rogue Sphinx  will be appreciated. 

Also, a member has a BAT VK-250 SS amp for sale. He mentioned also that he used it with BAT VK-31 pre-amp, and it was the best combo to date, even though he replaced both with ARC Reference separates Both were issued in 2006 when he bought them, and he kept them for 10 years.  The review on VK-250 in TAS in Nov. 2008 was politely neutral about its sound quality; I did not find any other reviews so far. I will be googling up reviews on BAT VK-31 pre-amp soon I don't know depending the pre-amp feature if the combo is worth the money, and he is going to have to come up with a very sharp quote far under $3000. to get me motivated.   Thanks again, Jim   .


mesch
3,530 posts
 
I would not care to bypass a tube based line stage with an OP one. Seems to me you would have paid for much you are not using by using the Sphinx as a pre.
almarg's avatar
almarg
9,670 posts
 
Hi Jim,

As you may be aware op amps ("operational amplifiers") are solid state integrated circuit devices that are often looked upon with disdain by audiophiles. In part because op amp-based implementations tend to be less costly than other approaches. That disdain is justified in many cases, but certainly not always IMO. As is usual in audio, it comes down to the quality of the particular device and the particular design. As well as to the resolving power of the rest of the system.
I was also informed by the Rogue tech that the sound may not be quite as good through the op-amp device, but he also claimed the op-amp is a very good device.
In the absence of a basis upon which to "calibrate" this statement, my guess is that it would still be a reasonable plan to initially upgrade to a separate power amp, and consider a preamp upgrade at a later time. But obviously that’s just my guess, FWIW.

The 10K minimum load recommendation, btw, is very reasonable, and most amps will meet that requirement.

Best regards,
-- Al

almarg's avatar
almarg
9,670 posts
 
P.S: Regarding "if I connect a separate power amp to line 3 which is a variable output ...," this still strikes me as incorrect, as well as being in conflict with statements in the manual. As can be seen in the rear panel photo I linked to earlier, line 3 is clearly marked as being an input, not an output. The variable line-level output corresponds to the pair of jacks labelled "Output - Var." Or at least it **should** correspond to those jacks, unless someone made a completely dumb mistake in the design, which I doubt, or if your unit is somehow different than what is shown in the photo and described in the manual.

Best regards,
-- Al

sbrownnw
717 posts
 
Try to find the following Audio Refinement (designed by YBA) separates used:

- Audio Refinement Pre5 (great imaging, warmish sound and a lot of inputs plus remote)
- Audio Refinement Multi 2, 3 or 5 (125 wpc 8 ohms / 200 wpc 4 ohms and matches very well with the Pre5)

Very musical combo that I use today and beat out a Rogue Cronus Magnum.
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