Class "A" sound, as related to Stereophile.



It's all about the sound.

It's all about sound, not how much it cost; when I got into "high end", I knew right off the bat I couldn't afford it, but I had to find one thing for sure; how do the various components sound in regard to Stereophile's classes, or ratings? In order to know this; I had to acquire the ability to identify "Stereophile's" class "A" class "B" and class "C" sounds, and the only way to do that was: first, subscribe to Stereophile, and next was to go to every high end audio salon within driving distance; there were 5 well stocked "high end" salons within driving distance. (Since I didn't take my wife, that created some problems)

After a few years of subscribing to Stereophile, plus auditioning equipment that Stereophile recommended, I knew the sound of those recommendations, and I absolutely concurred with them; "If you want to hear the music, you got to pay the piper". While that's true, it's possible to get class "A" sound with class "B" bucks or less.

At this moment, I am looking at 8 capacitors that cost $25 dollars each, plus 2 mono blocks with an instant resale value of 6K. Once I take the covers off and go in with my soldering iron, these mono blocks are worth a resell of O; my mission must be a success. After a successful mission, the resell is still 0; but those mono blocks will deliver class "A" or "A"+ sound, and that's some sweet music.

I have to visualize and hear music in my head before I can modify a component to deliver class "A" sound; but that's the only way for me to get what has become a necessity.

The pressure someone is under when they modify, is great, but the rewards are glorious. On these mono blocks, they are too small for the huge capacitors, therefore I have to figure a way to make the case larger. My reward is "sound" with absolutely no relation to money. I often wander if someone with a fat bankroll can identify the sound, or only how much they paid for each piece.


Happy listening.

orpheus10
Just buy a larger case for roughly $150 you can get a precision case 
with all cut out made in Italy . This is what I did with my Pass Labs F-6
dual mono  design clone using only premium parts  and to smooth all those Lytic caps take the VH Oimp caps on the outputs ,preamp coupling . I put 94 uf  per channel 
What a improvement over evrn the very good Nichicon gold Electrolytic caps.
on the outputs everything is smoothed through ,and much less then Mundorf 
or Jensen with performance on par or better ,Tip for the day .

gs5556, I never change any value one iota, I'm not an engineer; but thanks for the tip.

Jafant, I believe your fears have good foundation.

It's nice to know someone else has discovered those ratings to be valid, at least in class "A". When I went on a mission to verify those ratings was sometime ago, it was when high end salons existed; now, I couldn't do it, and I don't see how anyone else can.


Enjoy the music.

Audioman58, I would like more information on that; is it good enough for resell? Not that it matters a great deal.

Nichicon Gold are some good Electrolytics. It was 10 years ago when I changed all my Electrolytics that weren't too big, to "Blackgate's"; which are no longer available.

When you get the incredible degree of improvement we get from these "Mods", who cares about resell.


May all your "Mods" be successful.
You sound like a hammer looking for a nail.  It would never occur to me to look for an amp to work on.  And if I were, I would hope I knew more about than most other people.  You should probably look for an old Scott integrated and go to town on it.  That would be kind of fun, like fixing up a 1936 LaSalle coupe.