Class "A" sound, as related to Stereophile.



It's all about the sound.

It's all about sound, not how much it cost; when I got into "high end", I knew right off the bat I couldn't afford it, but I had to find one thing for sure; how do the various components sound in regard to Stereophile's classes, or ratings? In order to know this; I had to acquire the ability to identify "Stereophile's" class "A" class "B" and class "C" sounds, and the only way to do that was: first, subscribe to Stereophile, and next was to go to every high end audio salon within driving distance; there were 5 well stocked "high end" salons within driving distance. (Since I didn't take my wife, that created some problems)

After a few years of subscribing to Stereophile, plus auditioning equipment that Stereophile recommended, I knew the sound of those recommendations, and I absolutely concurred with them; "If you want to hear the music, you got to pay the piper". While that's true, it's possible to get class "A" sound with class "B" bucks or less.

At this moment, I am looking at 8 capacitors that cost $25 dollars each, plus 2 mono blocks with an instant resale value of 6K. Once I take the covers off and go in with my soldering iron, these mono blocks are worth a resell of O; my mission must be a success. After a successful mission, the resell is still 0; but those mono blocks will deliver class "A" or "A"+ sound, and that's some sweet music.

I have to visualize and hear music in my head before I can modify a component to deliver class "A" sound; but that's the only way for me to get what has become a necessity.

The pressure someone is under when they modify, is great, but the rewards are glorious. On these mono blocks, they are too small for the huge capacitors, therefore I have to figure a way to make the case larger. My reward is "sound" with absolutely no relation to money. I often wander if someone with a fat bankroll can identify the sound, or only how much they paid for each piece.


Happy listening.

orpheus10

Dave, if this much sounds that good, what will a little more sound like? I got the answer to that question just a few minutes ago; "Horrible"! This treatment will let you know in a hurry when you have done something wrong, and the good thing is, it doesn't cost much.

After adding too much absorption in the corners, everything sounded horrible, that means I've got enough absorption for sure; now to work on the diffusors.


Thanks again for the brilliant ideas.
I had the same experience, o. I have several panels and two bass traps in the attic as a result. So much for Ethan Winer's "cover the entire room" philosophy.

I am truly happy to read that you have achieved your desired results. Enjoy your "new" system. 

Best to you o,
Dave

Dave, I always like to mention everything anyone does to improve my enjoyment of this hobby in any way, and what suggestion of theirs that I heeded, which made my life easier.

"The digital gauge is much better and less likely to damage your stylus than the see-saw gauge. Make sure that the one you bought is non-magnetic."


It must have been a very long time ago when I bought that " teeter totter" as you called it instrument for measuring stylus tracking force, because I don't remember having any problem at all with it; but now, it's just too shaky for these fumble fingers.

I bought a "Riverstone Audio" digital pressure gauge that was perfect, and so much easier. I checked the VTF with this gauge, and discovered it was too heavy; after re-calibrating the force to a lighter one, I could hear my cartridge thank me, and I thank you for the suggestion.


Enjoy the music.
I am happy that things are going well for you my friend.

Merry Christmas,
Dave
Yes, when it comes to room treatments it seems that one must overtreat to know where one has to 'dial back' to for best results.