Synergistic Red Fuse ...

Frank,

Thanks to this thread you've started I took the SR Black splurge and even after only about 16 hours I'm happy I did. My system hasn't sounded better. It hasn't been a resounding sound difference......yet......the subtle improvements add immensely to my listening pleasure though. A tad more detail here, clarity there, a bit more air and texture everywhere adds an ambiance I've not heard before. 

As to coffee, ive never had a cup. Neither has my wife so we don't even own a coffee maker but your description of your brewing of it almost makes me want to brew some. Or maybe I'll just stick with brewing beer ;) A nice hearty bourbon stout maybe......that's as close to drinking coffee as I've experienced.

To Granny ring. I have spent 20 years realizing and upgrading stock parts gor premium ones . Trust me I have argued with amplifier mfg telling me a stock power cord will fo nothing it is just the metal burging in , or a capacitor is s capacitor. I just spent the last two weeks putting 200 hours on these new Synergistic Black fuses  with several guys over 2 times the cheap steel fuses were put back in then thd Black fuses in proper direction normally pointing back to ftont  these fuses thd engineers said 300 hours because of thd treatment and Graphene is multitudes more dense then Copper . I could not be happier. 
And before that changed the coupling caps throughout my system 
VH OIMP caps ,snd Jupiter Copper foil caps ,  and when doing Loudspeakers get your capacitors matched to under 1% for all .the Path audio resistors are the 
Most accurate by far mine were matched with 1/2 of 1%. You most certainly can here the timing accuracy as well as phase. Any company charging $10k plus and putting Solen in is s Disgrace.  My Salk Bud Fried  Speakers come with Solen but 
Jim let's you havd whatever you want.  The Duelund Cast the best, but way over priced . The Jupiter Copper foil are better then the standard Duelund in my experiences. Jantzen Copper inductors  ard excellent and decent Salk use Jantzen and mills resistors which are very respectable. Even Teflon solo crystal Copper wire makes a difference as well as connectors,  Bybee makes a great kit for improving the sonics also. My tech builds custom dual mono Pass lab 1at watt amps, and DHT preamplifiers.  This way you build top quality and you the buyer 
Has full control of the parts quality going into your unit  ascwrl, as the case  and powDer coated finish.  If any of your guys are thinking  about a amp or preamp or anything else Email me I would be happy to help.😎🎷🎸🎻

That's nice and everything but it should be pointed out that Graphene is not the conductor in the Black fuse.

58, I build with the same parts and learned first hand how great Jupiter caps, Path Audio resistors etc... are. I would also add how great Clarity TC film caps are in a power supply. These TC caps are far better than oilers or Solen fast caps. More tube amp builders should use them. Yes indeed wire makes a difference in amplifiers.

It also seems fuses make a difference and I think that only makes sense because all parts matter. The fuse is a part. Diodes matter. Tube sockets matter. Tranny wire matters. The fuse holder would also matter. I suppose if I used fuses I would dispense of the fuse holder and silver solder the fuse in place as this would surely sound even better. 

I can’t help how you interpret it. It’s a pretty clear statement.   Is there something wrong with it?