Burn in time for a new CD transport?

I think in most (almost all) cases, the "state of mind" of the listener makes the biggest difference in the sound quality. It is a proven fact - data to be provided upon request, that mind altering drugs - legal or otherwise, can have the an impact equivalent to upgrading the entire system. YMMV.

@bcowen,

Thanks much.

I have a W4S Dac2DSD that benefited from a simple fuse change (to a Furutech if I recall-its been a couple years now).

"Back in the day," transport modders would at a minimum damp the case (and maybe the drawer mechanism)- i.e. dynamat/constrained layer damping etc, change the RCA jacks, and bypass the power supply with a large[r] value cap. Then ERS shielding sheets. Then came the superclocks, then better DAC chipsets, then.... :D

This may be largely superseded by newer tech and solutions, but here is a good read .. http://lampizator.eu/LAMPIZATOR/TRANSPORT/CD_transport_DIY.html,.
..where Lukaz [Lampizator] goes into some good old school DIY transport upgrades, including the usual suspects and adding a few finer points. He argues that ensuring a clean sine wave at output is the main thing (assuming you have a scope), - something even the "best" names rarely did/do.

1. Vibrations (mass loading, platforms, deadening, felt mats, sand bags on the PCB, etc.)
2. Mechanism supply capacitors - upgrade with low ESR and larger sizes
3. Tuning the output transformer - to provide the best square on oscilloscope - just turn the centre core by a screwdriver or better just remove the whole transformer.
4. changing the series capacitor from transmitter side to ceramics
5. Changing the sockets from RCA to BNC or much better to XLR on both the transport and the DAC while changing the resistor from 75 Ohms to 110. The secondary of the output transformer should be completely floating and connected to XLR only and paralleled with the 110 Ohms.
6. upgrading the cable to a low loss, low capacitance and low inductance. 75 Ohms true wave impedance or better a AES EBU cable XLR with 110 Ohms.
7. Installing a super clock (after market) in the transport and in the DAC
8. Filtering the AC supply by the RFI filter in both the DAC and the transport.
9. Adding the power supply capacitors like os-con sanyo to the digital chips - the demodulator in transport, the digital filter SAA7220, the receiver in the DAC, and the DAC chip itself.

Upshot/Summary: "there is no one proper way of doing SP/DIF (coax) but the most popular way is the worst - with single ended coax transmission and wrong RCA connectors. The output circuitry is different in every machine and there are no rules what is best . You can try various approaches per diagrams - with a cap, without, with transformer and without, with ground or without. Main thing is to observe the END RESULT on the DAC side - how good is the scope trace?"

Different hearing, different changes, I believe it took 50 hrs , then it settles down,it opens up completely. 

Bought mine 2 month ago, Didn't hear much difference from the first time I fired it up .It's  better to use good power cord and coax/oprical cables and not the stock cheap ones to perform at its best.

Final note on burn in on this transport, it did take 10 to 12 hours to burn in, after burn in added a signal cable digital power cord to it and the Theata dac put them both on a set of Herbies tall Tenderfeet dampened the inside of the cabinet connected them with a Acoustic Zen MC2 digital cable and used a set of Aural Thrills silver Litz interconnects from dac to headphone amp and am very satisfied, this is a really good transport for a very reasonable price, great job Cambridge.