Jumpers for Integrated Amps: What are you guys using?


Hi Folks,

I just recently picked up a Creek 5350SE integrated amp and I’ve started doing a little reading on the subject of pre-out/main-in jumpers. I’m looking for some recommendations for the 5350SE and wanted to ask what you guys use? Since essentially the jumpers separate the preamp and amp, should this be treated as physical separates and therefore, should I just use another pair of interconnects? I do have a 5 inch pair of Kimber PBJ’s on the way as I read these work well with the Creek. All you Creek owners out there... what are you using? Anything?

The same thread also recommended Kimber Silver Streak with the WBT connectors, but that will get more costly. I wonder if Kimber makes these custom? And, speaking of silver interconnects, I’m currently using DH Labs Q-10 speaker cable on my Vandersteens, and Air Matrix interconnects on my Naim CD3.5. Since DH Labs made my custom Naim DIN to RCA cables, I asked about pre/main jumpers. They shortest they can make them is 14-16 inches. Should I keep everything brand consistent at this length?

I’ve also read about how this one guy bought a 1/8 inch solid silver rod and made his own u-shaped jumpers (modeled after his factory u-jumpers) and the sound was incredible. Anyone ever try that?

Thanks... JSB
jsbach1685
I do know that Creek makes a  phono card that can be inserted in place of the Aux input. 

I don't know wether insertion of a SHORT IC would make an improvement with this integrated, however can't believe it would hurt to try. In this case we are talking a 5" IC.  

JSB, please provide your thoughts after trying the PBJs.  
For guidance, my Anthem I225 Integrated Amplifier does not utilize exterior jumpers. 

PREAMPLIFIER
Input Resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 kΩ
Output Resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 560 Ω (Pre Out), 100 Ω (Rec Out)
Rated Input. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 Vrms
Maximum Input. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.6 Vrms
Minimum Load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 kΩ
Rated Output (100 kΩ load). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 Vrms
Maximum Output . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.6 Vrms
Headphone Output. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 500 mW into 32 Ω at 0.03% THD+N
Crosstalk (at 1 kHz) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 dB between channels, 72 dB between inputs
XLR Pin Configuration . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pin 1: Ground, Pin 2: Positive, Pin 3: Negative
Frequency Response and Bandwidth . . . . . . . . 20 Hz to 20 kHz (+0, -0.1 dB), 1 Hz to 170 kHz (+0, -3 dB)
THD+N (at Rated Input & Output) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.003% (80 kHz BW)
IMD (CCIF at 15 kHz & 16 kHz). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.0005%
S/N Ratio (ref. 2.0 Vrms, IEC-A filter) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 dB

N
I think you were the only one that was scared. You do seem to be shaken up over all this
Not really.  Just trying to convey accurate information.  The OP asked a question about what difference active or passive made and I answered his question.


A passive doesn't add or take away anything, that's why its called a passive
I guess your volume control doesn't do anything then.

You were talking about IC's. There's a difference. Creek does not put the jumpers on the outside so they can be replaced with better ones. They do it so the amp or preamp section can be completely bypassed.
There is a difference in the way they look but the function is the same.  Creek probably doesn't intend for them to be replaced but people do it all the time with no adverse effects.  That's why you can buy 5-6" interconnects.  Yes, they use jumpers so the amp or preamp can be bypassed.  I also agree that all connectors benefit by occasional cleaning.

In any event, I'm not going to turn this thread into a pissing contest.

To the OP, I would also like to hear the results of your replacing the jumpers with the Kimbers.  Best of luck.  Dick



I will definitely post back with my findings after trying to PBJ's. I found another post here on A-gon where a guy bought 99.99% pure silver rod and bent it to the shape of his stock U jumpers and said the results were amazing. As I mentioned in my original post, I got the PBJ's based on a post from a guy who was using a 5350 and was trying different jumpers. If cost wasn't an issue, the said he would've gone with the Kimber Silver Streak with WTB's. Since I have had excellent results with the DH Labs silver coated copper, perhaps I should stay consistent and go with a short pair of Air Matrix interconnects. Another silver wire jumper I found is from Tuneful Cables. Anyone heard of them? 
I have made tests of these and IT DOES MAKE A DIFFERENCE. MY MUSICAL FIDELITY M3 ? [Very expensive integrated 300 watts per channel] can be separated] and when I did with top IC it made a difference. I am more use to doing this with speakers and have found that solid silver is best compared to Cardas etc.