2. amps-preamps
  3. 129071-76532

Class D = Trash?

So, I'm on my second class D amp. The first one, a Teac AI-301DA which claimed to use an ICE module, was unlistenable trash. I burned it in for a few weeks, it just couldn't perform, so I sent it back. Following that, I tried the new Emotiva A-300 (class A/B). It was significantly better, but lacking in too many ways for my tastes. So I changed gears, got an 845 SET from China -- and it was an immediate and massive improvement.

So, before I went further down the SET road, I wanted to try a better class D product using a modern class D module. I settled on the D-Sonic M3-800S with the Pascal module and custom input stage. I read from reviews that these things like to have big cables, so I picked up an eBay 8 gauge power cable (Maze Audio, el-cheapo Oyaide copy plugs, braided 4-wire cable) to go along with it.

Mid-range GONE.
Soundstage depth CRUSHED.
Euphonics DISAPPEARED.

Yes, resolution went up. Driver control went up, allowing me to play compressed rock/pop and orchestra with the speakers being able to render it all. But enjoyment in the sound is basically gone. Using my best power cable (LessLoss Original) improved performance, but didn't fundamentally change the amp's nature. I ran back to my headphones (Focal Utopias) to detox my ear canals.

So, how long does a class D need to burn-in? I want to give it a fair shake before writing the technology off forever. 
madavid0
guidocorona
4,298 posts
 

I fully expect your D-Sonic to sound pretty ragged right now. And you should be prepared to its performance to fluctuate quite a bit for the first few hundred hours... Yes, this means that on occasion it might even sound worse than it does now.... But gradually it will trend for the better, and fluctuations will taper off.


If you have an old FM tuner, feed your amp FM interstation hash whenever you are not using... Even at night that is... THis will accelleate break in.


G.


bassdude
501 posts
 
"islandmandan" - yes... the "Class D Audio" brand of class D amps are great amps at a great price.  As I understand it... they use a linear power supply, rather than a switching power supply, which makes a difference.  I have the SDS 470C, which seems to sound as good as most of my other class A and Class A/B tube and SS amps.  And... of course... it's much smaller and lighter, and easy to move... and... doesn't heat up the room.

I took a chance on it, because the reviews were so good, and it cost so little ($700)... and... it was a good bet.  For that price - everyone should try one - almost nothing to lose!  I'd bet, they would all be surprised... and... pleased.

In case you want to try one:  http://www.classdaudio.com/sds-series-amplifiers/
madavid0 OP
214 posts
 
Also....am I crazy or is this amp casting an unstable image? Like sounds don't want to focus and stay there.

Like....the vocalist says a word that happens a little to the right, but the trailing consonant finishes a little on the left.
bbarlow690
60 posts
 
In my quest for continuing minimalism, I bought a PS Audio Sprout.  I love it.  It drives my Spatial Audio M1 Turbos effortlessly, with plenty of good noise in a large room.  The inboard DAC is way good enough for my Theta Pearl, I stream Bluetooth from my computer, and hooked up an MP3 player for background music and NPR.  All is well.

My 20-year-old Krell KAV-250 integrated sits unused.  Head to head, l'il Sproutie just sounded more...fun!

It's all that this old fart requires for enjoyment.

Now, maybe, an upgrade to M4 Turbos.  I like the white.
guidocorona
4,298 posts
 

madavid0, what your amp does now is most likely a break-in artifact... Discount it for the next two weeks or so.


If the behavior persists towards the end of the 3rd week, try switching the left/right inputs of the amp around. If the problem changes channel, there is something amiss in the electronic or wire chain.

G.


More to discover