Ohm Walsh Micro Talls: who's actually heard 'em?

Excellent discussion.....

For deep impact and gut wrenching power I do agree full heartedly
subs are a must. As a few people know I've been in the business and tried so many subs from A-Z that when I decided too go gang busters last time I wanted new subs.
 To go all out on subs you can spend your kids college tuition.....no problem. But at some point I said no way I'm spending $30k on subs.
So looking around, talking to a few crazy people I decided to build my own subs and save some big bucks. My house is built on a raised foundation so I decided to take on an infinite baffle design.
As I dove in to the planing stages I decided for a design containing four 18" drivers per side.....Ohhh no that got vetoed faster.....You know the rest of the story if your married lol. So two 18" per side was fine.

My wife is very agreeable to all sort of hair brained ideas I have but
before you know it she sniffed out the next hurdle....the holes in the floor. Due to the design I use the cavity under the house as the infinite baffle. That battle was slightly easier then a six foot stack of 
18" drivers, at least the floor can be patched the other option was an eyesore of the first kind (according to her).
With all that surface area and 2000 watts per side even a small movement will energize the room, no strain, no chuffing ports just pure energy......amazing. If you feel wanting for good deep vibrations
in a movie, I never heard anything even coming close to the energy
and output all the way down to 5 hz, 8hz will make the house react like we have an earth quake the house moves like in waves and all
the wiring inside the walls will slap the drywall. 
Now even though the 4/5000s are dipping in to the 25hz region I find that to get the best sound for music is to x-over at 100 hz yep it sounds cleaner less muddy, just more musical. For movies I open the taps and let them go full tilt as it does sound fuller.

Another weekend for F1 Racing so I'm a happy man...🇸🇪

"I do have in teh back of my head that powered subs + smaller speakers and smaller amp, like in my second system, could potentially surpass even my other bigger badder rig currently."
(maps, 6/9)

Exactly...;)  Do that.  With your ears and intellect, you ought to be pleasantly surprised, if not blown away.

Yeah, I'm lurking out here on the periphery....y'all need to be watched. *L*

Just wanted to say....WOW
The F1  race in Canada was A-mazing  and I'm pumped. And I didn't 
know that Champagne taste great in a sweaty shoe, Patric Stewart does (If you watch F1 you will know what I'm talking about). 

I will try to work on the speakers this week, as few of you know I do have some health issues that makes it hard to work sometimes due to pain, but I will do my best to get started again tomorrow.

So I do have to make some decisions on the tweeter unit as The whole upper assembly is dependent on the type of tweeter I want to use. I have given the ESS unit a thought as it does sound pretty awesome and it's amazingly easy to X-over the the unit to the Walsh driver.
 The issue I'm having is size and weight, the thing ways anywhere from 10-16lbs and the overall size at 6" tall on the big bad boy is something I have to consider. If anyone has an input feel free to tell me what you think......I'm open to suggestions.

Other than that I love the way the cabinet looks even though I went through some tough times getting it right. I've done some test fitting of the finish and I will be killer and I believe no one else has done it
so that's very exciting.

Have a great rest of the weekend.......🇸🇪

Hi Peter i like the idea of the ESS . I would fabricate a tweeter stand like a tripod attached to a ring that goes around the l/f driver flange so that you can rotate the tweeter . the top of the tripod base should have enough room to time align the tweeter .    

peter, after wrestling an F1 around a track for a few hours with your 'stay alive' competing with 'go fast', I would chug some bubbly from a used condom. *L*  But it'd better be mine...;)

enginedr, pete..."Kiss Principal" protocol.  If the ESS is centered over the lf driver, time alignment is Done,  Rotation not necessary unless you absolutely have to have the base cabinet at a right angle to the wall.  Since we're all familiar with 'toe in/out' of conventional speakers, that becomes the aesthetics of how you want the cabinets to look in the room...

Yeah, the ESS driver is a heavy little punk.  Mine mount with 2 1/4" bolts vertically through the case.  Those can go into either a T-nut or a threaded insert into a base plate of nice ply or even a plate of metal if one taps the holes in it..

BTW, been there, done that...I do this sort of thing daily, making 'things' go together...and making it look Nice....

Put a piece of rubber or Sorbothane between the driver and said plate.  Although I've really not noticed any spurious vibration from the driver, even at 'full song', granted it could be an issue...

Mounting plate could be suspended above the base cabinet and the woofer with 4 threaded rods and some sleeves of metal tubing to set the height as desired.

A variation of the above could allow the ESS to be rotated and cinched down fairly easily.  Since you're mating a dipole with an omni, and if you'd rather not rotate the base cabinet, it's doable without too much more fuss.

*L*  I've gotten so used to doing the improbable with so little that mounting an ESS over an Ohm is Easy.

Of course, 'resale value' heads out the window, but...if you're 'doing a clone', that point goes moot...or *poof*. *L*

I could send a sketch of what I'm jabbering about, but I need to know that address...I do that sort of thing, too...;)  And would be quite happy about doing so....*G*