Fantastic, the thread is alive....
Let me start to answer the layout of the main driver and tweeter assembly. Nothing is what you think with the Ohms, normally it would be called smoke and mirrors, but in this case JS has managed to make strawberry pie from potato dumplings and that
is his magic. If you open the "Can" the first thing you see is a round
3/16" thick (varies from speaker to speaker) plywood platform.
This platform is approx the diameter of the backside bottom of the
main driver. On the platform (which is glued to the bottom of the magnet) you will have X-over parts the wiring harness going to the switch network, the tweeter and that's it on the top. On the bottom
is a two inch thick insulation pad made from re-cycled denim.
I have certainly thought over the why of this part and the only reason I can come up with is that the platform by it self would smear the sound stage if left in its raw state. Here are a few images of the
platform. Sorry for the state of its shape Etc. But I needed it out
and removed from the main driver.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/147883144@N08/shares/9K82X5
So I see no issues with an ESS driver, or any other type of driver
above the main driver.
I agree you need beefy power supplies or it's a no go! These speakers are incredibly hard to drive and I can follow the power deliver on the output meters and very few speakers has managed to
come even close to what both 2/2000 and 4/5000 has managed to do.
Thank you for the input on the tweeter choice, I will mull it over
this week and make some decisions. As for attaching the tweeter
my solution is so deliciously cool that you wish 😜 you thought of it
and I will share very soon.
One more thought on subs. One of the big things youlll find when you add subs is that the stereo width opens up and the delivery is deeper and more palpable (just my take on it.
P...........🇸🇪
Let me start to answer the layout of the main driver and tweeter assembly. Nothing is what you think with the Ohms, normally it would be called smoke and mirrors, but in this case JS has managed to make strawberry pie from potato dumplings and that
is his magic. If you open the "Can" the first thing you see is a round
3/16" thick (varies from speaker to speaker) plywood platform.
This platform is approx the diameter of the backside bottom of the
main driver. On the platform (which is glued to the bottom of the magnet) you will have X-over parts the wiring harness going to the switch network, the tweeter and that's it on the top. On the bottom
is a two inch thick insulation pad made from re-cycled denim.
I have certainly thought over the why of this part and the only reason I can come up with is that the platform by it self would smear the sound stage if left in its raw state. Here are a few images of the
platform. Sorry for the state of its shape Etc. But I needed it out
and removed from the main driver.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/147883144@N08/shares/9K82X5
So I see no issues with an ESS driver, or any other type of driver
above the main driver.
I agree you need beefy power supplies or it's a no go! These speakers are incredibly hard to drive and I can follow the power deliver on the output meters and very few speakers has managed to
come even close to what both 2/2000 and 4/5000 has managed to do.
Thank you for the input on the tweeter choice, I will mull it over
this week and make some decisions. As for attaching the tweeter
my solution is so deliciously cool that you wish 😜 you thought of it
and I will share very soon.
One more thought on subs. One of the big things youlll find when you add subs is that the stereo width opens up and the delivery is deeper and more palpable (just my take on it.
P...........🇸🇪