Subwoofer for classical music listener


This is my second post on the subject of subwoofers.
My first post wasn't specific enough.
I listen to classical music 90% of the time.
Are there any classical music listeners out there who have subwoofers?
if there are, could you let me know what you have?
i don't imagine I would need quite as powerful or expensive a sub as those who mainly listen to other types of music, but I may be wrong.

128x128rvpiano
For what it’s worth, I don’t like running my main speakers through some external crossover. I am concerned that additional electronics in the way of the main speakers will cause a loss of transparency. I let them play full range, and feed the subs by a second set of outputs on my line stage, directly to the amps on a pair of 15 inch sealed Rythmiks. I haven’t had the room measured yet, but I got them playing pretty good without muddling up the mid bass; you almost don’t know they are there, except for added bass punch when it is on the recording; even when there is no low bass in the program material, the subs seem to add air and dimensionality in the lower octaves which, surprisingly, improves the midrange as well. And I’m crossing over really low- the subs are set to start rolling off at 50hz at a fairly steep curve- 24db. Not shilling for Rythmik, but this is the second transaction I’ve had with Brian and he’s very good. My subs do not have a speaker level connection, i.e. taking the signal from your main amp to feed the subs, to lend the character of the main amp to the sub amp for increased coherence. That’s how the integrated woofers in my Avantgarde’s are set up, which benefit from the extra punch and depth of these "external" subs. I’m also messing with cheap DSP on the subs, which does make some improvements but I think getting the subs located optimally, with a minimum of room treatment and processing is the first step and getting measurements is essential for that. I do have bass traps in all 4 corners and the room sounds pretty good. Once I’ve got that sorted, and it may involve some additional room treatment, repositioning, and possibly some EQ, I’ll be cooking. I’ve only had the system up and running for a couple weeks now since I moved from the NE, and continue to dial it in. Those Blue Jeans woofer cables are OK, and cheap. I use fancy cable elsewhere in the system and it all plays together pretty nicely. I’m sure I’ll tweak and improve it more as time goes on but that’s part of the fun, so long as it doesn’t interfere with your ability to enjoy what you have.
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(((For what it’s worth, I don’t like running my main speakers through some external crossover. I am concerned that additional electronics in the way of the main speakers will cause a loss of transparency. I let them play full range, and feed the subs by a second set of outputs on my line stage, directly to the amps on a pair of 15 inch sealed Rythmiks. I haven’t had the room measured yet, but I got them playing pretty good)))
Whart
 Sometimes we take 2 steps backwards to get 12 forward.
 Take a look at your in room response by downloading Vandertones
  write down 1 to 11 vertically on paper for left ch and 1 to 11 right.
Now Insert Vandertones Burned CD trk 1 to 11 try and get only 8 of 11 of these tracks over 70 db simply by adjusting the preamps volume control.
 once you have nailed 8 of 11 over 70 db c weighted slow your ready to write down the measurements for left and then track 16 to 27 for the right channel.
 
 Please feel free to share them here
 Best,
 JohnnyR
stfoth:  Thank you so much for your encouragement with the high pass option.  I had just about given up the hope of having the same quality with as without the subwoofer.  
Miracle of miracles! The high pass option seems to have done the trick.
Preliminary tests show no seeming degradation of the signal.
Of course, I just started testing and adjusting, but wow, the signs are very encouraging.
Thanks again.

And Al, of course thank you.  Wouldn't have happened without YOU!
If one's sub can be integrated using a mere 1st order high-pass filter (6dB/octave), there is a simple, easy, transparent way to accomplish that. Just solder a capacitor of the correct value (the formula for determining that value can be found on the 'net---it involves the power amp's input impedance and the desired corner frequency) on the power amps input jacks.