Would you like to know about Dunlavy mods?

No, I did neither of those mods.I feel that if you did those type of changes you would change the time alignment.I do not have the means to measure time offset.Actually the crossover upgrades and the removal of all the steel from the around the components really show how good the Vifa drivers can be.I have been told by a designer of amps and speakers that a .47mic film and foil cap across the output of the x-over to the 2- 10inwoofers will enhance the blend from bass to mids.

Dan, please excuse my ignorance....why does the non ferrous hardware make a difference to the sound? Where can I get the brass screws and other hardware?

Secondly, I tried to open the back of the speaker but the panel was stuck firmly even though the screws were taken out. Does Dunlavy use a glue to stick the panel to the box? Please advise.

Thanks in advance.

genesis168

Genesis,

You should be able to get brass hardware at most hardware stores. Home Depot and Sears P&H in my area have them. The crossover panel has a thin foam seal around the perimeter. You may need to pry a little bit to get it started. The botttom crossover board is in wood alignment slots, so it will need to be slid out straight (not angular). The crossovers in the SC-Vs are surprisingly heavy, this may also contribute to your seemingly "stuck firmly" crossover.
Once you have the crossover out of the enclosure, I would also suggest changing the way the the lug panel is mounted. It will allow you to use any lugs on the back of the Dunlavys. This may be difficult to describe, I'll do my best.-- When SC-Xs are delivered from factory, it is nearly impossible to put large, inflexible cables (ex.Syn Res Des Refs) on them. If the ring (spacer) that is sandwiched between the lug panel and the exterior crossover panel is moved to behind the lug panel, there is then no well that is caused by that ring (spacer). If the above description is insufficient, I believe I have some digital photos around here if anyone would like them emailed to them.
Lastly, I would also enjoy a description of how non-ferrous fastening materials effected the original sound.

Thank you, Aaron

I would just like to thank all of you for your interesting
input. I'm not sure if I'm up to the task of taking the
speakers apart, but I've learned to really appreciate the
positve efforts of trying different 'tweeks' in my system.
I am curious about what it is that you like best about
the speakers? For me it's the incredible imaging that can
be achieved at the 'sweet seat' listening position. Well
recorded music takes on a holograhic character. This position is barely two listeners wide and is the result
of allot of experimentation. In many ways I feel that my
quest for superb music reproduction has been realized
with this design.

Thanks Aaron, I will try to pry open the speakers and also try getting the brass hardware. Thanks again.