Would you like to know about Dunlavy mods?

Genesis,

You should be able to get brass hardware at most hardware stores. Home Depot and Sears P&H in my area have them. The crossover panel has a thin foam seal around the perimeter. You may need to pry a little bit to get it started. The botttom crossover board is in wood alignment slots, so it will need to be slid out straight (not angular). The crossovers in the SC-Vs are surprisingly heavy, this may also contribute to your seemingly "stuck firmly" crossover.
Once you have the crossover out of the enclosure, I would also suggest changing the way the the lug panel is mounted. It will allow you to use any lugs on the back of the Dunlavys. This may be difficult to describe, I'll do my best.-- When SC-Xs are delivered from factory, it is nearly impossible to put large, inflexible cables (ex.Syn Res Des Refs) on them. If the ring (spacer) that is sandwiched between the lug panel and the exterior crossover panel is moved to behind the lug panel, there is then no well that is caused by that ring (spacer). If the above description is insufficient, I believe I have some digital photos around here if anyone would like them emailed to them.
Lastly, I would also enjoy a description of how non-ferrous fastening materials effected the original sound.

Thank you, Aaron

I would just like to thank all of you for your interesting
input. I'm not sure if I'm up to the task of taking the
speakers apart, but I've learned to really appreciate the
positve efforts of trying different 'tweeks' in my system.
I am curious about what it is that you like best about
the speakers? For me it's the incredible imaging that can
be achieved at the 'sweet seat' listening position. Well
recorded music takes on a holograhic character. This position is barely two listeners wide and is the result
of allot of experimentation. In many ways I feel that my
quest for superb music reproduction has been realized
with this design.

Thanks Aaron, I will try to pry open the speakers and also try getting the brass hardware. Thanks again.

Ferrous materials around the magnetic structure (other than the pole piece} will interfere with the lines of flux.The difference I heard when I subsituted the brass machine screws was a smoother,quieter sound, less apparent hash, lower distotion,with more focus to the individual sound stage.The crossover is mounted with steel screws,and the back plate has an adhesive gasket.This assembly can be slid out of the back for inspection.Aaron, the back plate for the input terminal can be removed and a new one can be made to replace it.If you do so then you can change to the Cardas copper connectors and use any cables you want.Brass hardware can be found more easily at mom and pop hardware stores than at the big boys.Again you can buy many of the caps and resistors and inductors from North Creek Music Systems.Remember I changed the inductor wire gauge so this made the inductor much larger in size.This much, much larger size required me to mount the crossover external to the cabinet which allowed me to use any and all types of spkr. wire as well as to remove the components from the turbulence inside the cabinet.When you add up all of the minor to small to large changes that I made to these speakers over the last few years the difference I feel and to others that have witnessed them, is Huge. As time went on I became bolder and more confident in the changes I made .Some times I thought to myself "Tom don't screw up these great and expensive speskers".Remember I never changed the value of the components, only their physcial quality. I would not recomMend changing drivers.Thanks for listening ,Tom

Tom. the Zobel networks will not affect the time alignment at all. Ehider knows what he's talking about. If you Zobel the drivers, you will get much more linear results, particularly around the crossover points. The one that is probably the most critical one to do is the woofer. Line one up for the resonant frequency of the woofer and you will be amazed.
Also, about the ferrous metals, if you separate the chokes and coils wider apart, they will have less interplay between them. The fields interact more when they are closer together. If you can get them a six inches to a foot apart, then do it.
It is critical when soldering to not get cold joints. They will filter the high frequencies out.