The new Synergistic Research BLUE fuses ....

As I pointed out on (I think) a different post, there are 3 levels of fuses out there with the first two for commercial use. The 1st level is the cheap, standard fuse that varies more than it should concerning it's rating and the next level up are the boutique fuses which melt exactly when they should. 

If you're device is drawing more current than what it should, maybe you need to take a long, hard look at your component and find out why it's doing what it shouldn't be doing.

All the best,
Nonoise

Furutech fuses are rebranded Padis. The only difference Furutech's are cryo treated (and more expensive :) ). Padis rolled off in highs doesn't mean it's not bright. 
Furutech: bright, dynamic, detailed, lean. Padis must share "the housesound" . I haven't tried Padis though.
Hifi Tuning Supreme (silver) is slightly bright and lean,  Supreme Cardas is a different story.

The HiFi Supreme Cardas Cu version is slightly warmer and more organic sounding compared to SR Black or HiFi Silver Supremes..try it in your digital source and you may end up thanking me :-)

I have not tried the SR Blue’s yet.....

There're no silver bullets, even fuses are component dependent.  I've compared Furutech with SR Red and Blacks on same component and Furutech is darker, thicker, more colored ... similar to HiFi Tuning Supremes.

Jafreeman 10-27-2017
How do they work? They are better conductors than the tiny filaments in glass---question is, how much are they part of the circuit? ... Perhaps Al can define the various positions of fuses and their part in signal conduction. I know if I remove the fuses from the AC main inputs, the equipment won’t work at all. I believe the fuses in my Maggie 3.6 tweeter and midrange fuse bank are part of the final signal pathway. Are they the complete pathway, or are they a shunt to receive an overload? How about the AC position--and the rail fuse?

Aside perhaps for some unusual circuit configurations that may exist in a few designs, a fuse will always be in series with what it is protecting, rather than in shunt (i.e., in parallel). Otherwise the fuse wouldn’t be able to interrupt the current drawn by the equipment that is being protected, when a fault in the equipment makes that necessary.

Regarding upgraded fuses being better conductors, I’ve indicated in some previous fuse-related threads that when the resistance numbers that are available for various fuse types are looked at quantitatively the bottom line generally appears to be that they are small enough to at most be marginally significant in some applications, but not in most applications. And in the case of mains fuses the voltage drops corresponding to those resistances would certainly be vastly smaller than the +/- 6 volt tolerance we have in the USA on our incoming 120 volt AC. IMO what stands a greater chance of being significant more often are the **fluctuations** in fuse resistance that occur in applications where the the amount of current being conducted by the fuse fluctuates widely. Which in turn could very conceivably result in modulation or intermodulation effects on the signal. That would apply to speaker applications (as you’ve found with your Maggies), and to many power amplifier applications. Most preamps and source components, though, draw essentially the same amount of current all the time.

Nonoise 10-27-2017
As I pointed out on (I think) a different post, there are 3 levels of fuses out there with the first two for commercial use. The 1st level is the cheap, standard fuse that varies more than it should concerning it’s rating and the next level up are the boutique fuses which melt exactly when they should.

If you’re device is drawing more current than what it should, maybe you need to take a long, hard look at your component and find out why it’s doing what it shouldn’t be doing.

I recall that you’ve mentioned the statements in the first paragraph were told to you by a seller of boutique fuses. Is there any other basis that you are aware of for these statements? I am not aware of any other basis.

And I can recall that at least 8 different members have reported here in the past year or two that boutique fuses blew in their equipment, which in most or all cases had presumably been operating without issue for a considerable amount of time with the stock fuses. In most of those cases the fuse which blew had the same current rating as the stock fuse, but in at least one case I can recall the upgraded fuse blew even though it had a significantly higher current rating than the stock fuse.

Also, it’s perhaps relevant that the technical data supplied by Littelfuse and Cooper Bussmann for their fuses is vastly more comprehensive than data I’ve ever seen for any boutique fuse. And included in the data provided by Littelfuse and Cooper Bussmann is a melting point specification, measured in amps squared x seconds, which I’ve never seen provided for a boutique fuse. Admittedly, though, that particular spec is just provided in the form of a nominal value, without a +/- tolerance.

Finally, my perception and my own experience has been that with very rare exceptions stock fuses in audio equipment tend to blow when and only when a fault in the equipment makes it necessary.

So if I’m correct in interpreting the second paragraph I quoted from your post as implying that the equipment should be blamed when a boutique fuse blows and there is no evidence of an outright fault in the equipment, I would have to respectfully disagree.

Best regards,
-- Al