@nandric playing re-tippers by ourself is not for everyone to transplant the cantilever from one to another cart. I think @ateal looking for easiest solution. But the manufacturer voiced their top model with their top generator, there are many internal difference in the generator, but even vertical tracking angle of the cantilever itself is different. Swapping 170 styli with 180 styli is not a good idea. But no problem to swap 170 and 150/140. Anyone can find comparison chart of data for AT-Ml series in the gallery here.
Audio Technica AT ML-180 Cartridge Advice
Also would like to know which is the best tonearm to use for this cartridge once it's fixed. It can either go on my Audiomods Series 5 (eff. mass approx. 11g) or the arm on my Yamaha GT 2000 which has an effective mass of approx. 20g.
Thanks in advance.
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@rauliruegas well, it's not easy to sell broken carts even if the repair service available, to find MM cart equal to AT-ML180 is not easy, especially for the price for repair (about 350 pounds).I'm not sure why do you think one service in UK is better than other. Personally i have never use repair service in UK. But Nordwest Analogue ignored by request made with his contact form on their website. But Exdpert Stylus repliad to all my messages immediately. As far as i know the Expert Stylus is manufacturer with 40 years of experience in refurbishing. Not sure how old is Dominic (Nordwest Analogue), but what is good is that anyone can see his portfolio, i believe his service is very good, but for premium prices. @nandric playing re-tippers by ourself is not for everyone to transplant the cantilever from one to another cart. I think @ateal looking for easiest solution. But the manufacturer voiced their top model with their top generator, there are many internal difference in the generator, but even vertical tracking angle of the cantilever itself is different. Swapping 170 styli with 180 styli is not a good idea. But no problem to swap 170 and 150/140. Anyone can find comparison chart of data for AT-Ml series in the gallery here. |
It appears you can use the ML 150 on the ML 180. http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/re-tip-or-transplant-audio-technica-ml180-occ-w-broke... |
@ateal the guy you are quoting know nothing about the difference between two models if he think that 180 is Beryllium (in fact it is Boron). However there is a comment about the difference between 180 and all others (which is correct). I think i already explained why 180 is a different cartridge, look at the data. I have a few 170 and 180 cartridges and i can swap the styli between them, they will fit, but they will not sound good/correct if the generators are swapped (they are different). 180 is a stand alone cartridge. So you can not upgrade the 170/150 cartridge with ANT180ML stylus and vice versa. You need a retipper who really understand the subject, not just gluing whatever stylus/cantilever of this at-ml180 cartridge. Also i would never trust people who deal with Andy at Needle Clinic, i saw his woks on the pictures and it’s very bad quality, awful. So the advice to deal with Needle Clinic is a very bad advice. You have mentioned Garrott service in Australia, you should know that the brothers are no longer available, but the company has a good reputation. They can provide Micro Tracer or Micro Scanner diamonds along with Fritz Gyger (FG) diamond - this is a very good option if they can offer a Boron Cantilever. |
Dear chakster, from our discussion about Technics 205 series and AT 180, 170, etc. series I can only conclude that you never disassemled any of those styli. If you deed you could see how those are constructed and then ''grasp'' what an retipper can and not can do. I retipped only one of my all MM carts. The reason is the way this is done. Symple gluing the ''tubed'' aluminum cantilever above the ''restant'' of the original cantilever. All AT ''styli'' have the same construction. But the cantilever is fastened and centered with the tension wire to the tube behind. All MC carts use tension wire to connect the moving parts with the damper and the rest of the generator . But by MM carts this tension wire can't be removed or repaired. So the so called ''retip'' is limited to gluing an new cantilever above the rest of the ''old cantilever''. Consider than the problem from retipper side. A boron ( rod) cantilever can't be glued on the restant of the old cantilever without the help of an aluminume tube as bridge between the parts. Besides whatever boron kinds can't be connected with the tension wire behind the original cantilever. So advising co-members about possible retip without any idea about what can be done and what not is very curious act based on assumptions or rather speculations. The involved efforts and costs are then for the member who asked advice. Because all AT styli have the same construction substituting the cantilevers is obvious possibility. To prevent this AT invented different coupling system between the stylus holder and the cart body. Those can't be switched as ''stylus holder''. But by removing the whole cantilever/ damping combo from one cart and transplanting to the other this ''coupling problem'' can be solved. BTW beryllium is better cantilever material than boron. Even better than ''gold plated boron '' (grin).
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