Shahinian Obelisk vs VandersteenTreo

@ja_zz 
I just got your pics and I think I am correct. There should be a threaded insert inside the cabinet.
It looks like the numbnuts previous owner over-tightened the spikes and when he removed them, he took out the inserts as well. No wonder why he 'lost' them.
As I said, you need T nuts, better yet, call Johnny Rutan (send him the pics you sent me) or Mr. V. directly and I bet they will have the proper parts  to fix it.
Can you do it yourself, sure.
BUT, why risk more problems? And, it looks like he broke off some of the bottom of the speaker where they attach.
B

Bob,
I broke it a bit myself. I thought there were metal inserts and screwed the cones in without looking. My bad.
However, rest of the thread is fine. 
And I can make the inserts if they are flat and fit into those depressions on the bottom.
I will also request Richard for those spares.
Can you guys please measure the gaps between the speaker bottom in front and back of the speakers and the floor? Thanks!

Can you guys please measure the gaps between the speaker bottom in front and back of the speakers and the floor? Thanks!

You don't need this.
If/when you put in the threaded inserts, you will thread your spike stud into it. Then, depending upon your floor, you will adjust each spike to give you the proper tilt(as per the Vandy manual), then tighten the jam nut to secure.

However, rest of the thread is fine.

There is no thread in there. Hence the need for threaded inserts.
B

Bob,
What I want to know is how much tilt does it usually require to correctly position the speakers.
Hence the question.
And yes, there is thread both in the front holes (cones) and in the back (Spike).

As far as length of bolt is concerned, it depends on how un-level your floors are. In my 100 year old house, things are definitely out of plumb. Thankfully, I didn't need to alter the spikes, so I doubt you will.
If I recall, the spikes have about 1.5-1.75 inches of thread exposed before the spike.
B