Zerostat: Old is Gold?


I was recently in the market for a Zerostat gun.  I looked online and saw that they had moved their production from England to China.  Of course, without any reduction in price.  As I try to avoid Chinese manufacture as much as I can,  I thought I would buy a used one on ebay.  I bid on a few auctions but was surprised to see them selling for around $50 for one in decent (but hardly new) condition.  The new blue Zerostats from China are $80 and up. 

Are the old Zerostats in some way superior to the newer Chinese made that would justify the (IMO) relatively high prices being realized for the original guns?
128x128andysf
@andysf   What?  Must be some humor there but I must be too tired to appreciate it...big day entertaining relatives. 😳
Dear Andy, Thanks for the lecture on how to behave on audio websites.  I would have rather thought that it is fun to behave as if we are all friends to begin with, and we are sitting around having a discussion over a hypothetical beer.  In my experience, everything in audio is open to "endless debate", regardless of how circumspect one might or might not be in expressing one's opinion.  I hold no grudge, nor do I bear any anger, directed at anyone here.  That's a given.

One thing I do know, though, is that you'd need to perform some thoughtful testing (if you think using the word "scientific" is pedantic), in order to know whether a particular Zerostat, old or new, British or Chinese in origin, is actually working.  
My experience with the Zerostat left me with the feeling it was just a piece of crap. It never did work right. I guess it was made in the UK, as I bought it over ten years ago. I won't be wasting cash on another one, that's for sure.

Dan
Islandman, We differ in the sense that I do think a Zerostat can work to do the job for which it is intended.  My only point is that I don't know whether MY Zerostat is still working after more than 40 years, and I certainly don't know if a Chinese-made Zerostat is any better or worse than one made in England.  Nor do I think one can answer that question without taking some measurements.

To complicate matters further, there are completely contradictory descriptions of how properly to use a Zerostat, to be found on the internet. One says to operate the trigger back and forth while holding the gun about 12 inches from the LP.  Another says to operate the trigger slowly so not to activate the clicking sound, hold the trigger IN, and then slowly pull the gun away from the vicinity of the LP while very slowly releasing the trigger.  Some folks say you can de-stat while the LP is on the platter, some say not.  So, if the gun does not appear to be working perhaps the problem is the method.  (I don't know myself which is correct, but the idea to hold the trigger IN while pulling the gun away from the LP makes some sense to me.)
FWIW - I had an "original" red Zerostat for years and (as was discussed in another earlier A’gon thread) followed the directions supplied with it. Going by memory now, instructions were to slowly pull and release the trigger at (3?) locations around an LP while on the turntable. One pull- and-release cycle at each of those locations. For the 4th and final activation, pull the trigger slowly while positioned over the spindle, then withdraw before releasing the trigger. Distance from the LP on the order of 8" or so (again, going by memory). Idea was to shower the vinyl surface with charged particles that were supposed to neutralize static.

I have a new blue Zerostat now. Don’t feel like digging it out to double-check but my recollection is that it’s supplied with a little attachment that fits on the tip of the "gun". This is not for use when treating an LP but is intended to confirm the Zerostat is functional. If the Zerostat is working, a little light on the attachment will illuminate when the trigger is pulled. The attachment is to be removed when using the gun to treat LPs.

Results with Zerostat do seem to be mixed and inconsistent - it might help with cleaning dust using a record cleaning brush afterwards but doesn’t always seem to reduce static buildup felt on removing the LP after play - even if used after a side is played. I mainly use the Zerostat prior to playing the rare piece of vinyl with significant dust and then follow with a record cleaning brush. More often, records are clean enough that Zerostat is not employed. I prefer, instead, to use a lightly moistened Hunt Mark 6 brush. Empty and rinse a spray bottle as supplied with eye glass cleaning solution from the optometrists office. Fill with 1 oz. distilled water and 1-2 drops 99% isopropyl alcohol. These spray bottles generate a very fine mist. Lightly mist (that’s LIGHTLY as in spray once from a distance) the surface of the record cleaning brush. With a few rotations, this lightly moistened brush does a great job collecting and removing any dust from the LP surface.