Speaker Jumpers - Same Brand as Speaker Cables?
I use AQ bare jumpers: https://www.amazon.com/SET-4-GOLD-BIWIRE-JUMPERS/dp/B005A5Z758/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1519352772... They also come silver plated. More expensive jumpers offer fancy insulation material, while bare jumpers (if you can use them) offer the best insulation available: air |
I did an A-B swap-in / swap-out bake off between biwired vs single runs and matched jumpers with NORDOST FREY speaker cables in MY system ( emphasis added )) The clear winner for me was a stepped up variant of the single cable option: a full doubled up shotgunned loom of FREYs with matched shotgunned FREY jumpers. It mirrored the NORDOST commentary below vis-a-vis the key point already highlighted, in that high quality single runs with high quality jumpers will invariably best cheap quality bi-wires. http://www.nordost.com/downloads/NorseJumperinstructions.pdf There is no onesize fits all approach .... full stop. The only way to know is to actually do an A-B shootout. I would not buy any uber- expensive cables (bi wires or changing to single & jumpers ) until I satisfied myself that which option is the best option forward FIRST. |
Well, I now have the cables with some extra length to make it easy to use both posts of my bi-wireable speakers (JBL 4319). Having to feed both pos and neg at the same time due to the stiffness of a solid core 14 AWG silver wire was a bit of a PITA. The ridge between the upper and lower posts was more of an obstacle than I thought it would be. I had to gently pluck both leads as they came out of the lower post towards me and then bend them back at the proper angle while feeding it from below but I got it to work. Both pos and neg has to be fed at the same time. The second set was much easier after knowing how to do it. Thank you, JBL, for aligning all the posts so the eye holes all face upwards. Joe, from Tempo Electric was thoughtful enough to add in some extra sheathing (oversized tubing) for the exposed bits here and there and all it took was some cutting and fitting to limit the wires exposure. Eliminating the jumpers was a step in the right direction. I no longer have four different metals and dielectric to mess with the signal. It’s just the bare end of the speaker wire attached to both posts: it’s as simple as it gets. KISS. I highly recommend this even with stranded wire. As long as you can thread it through the eye of the post and watch for stray strands, all should go well. Then go back and after cutting a slit along the length of the tubing, press it over the cable and it should be enough to inhibit oxidation, at least slowing it down. If solid core copper cable is your thing, try to get some soft annealed copper as it could be quite a PITA to get it to bend. It’s worth it to try it. And, go for as large a gauge as you can afford. I wish I would have bought 12 gauge, solid silver years back instead of buying all the cabling I now have. Hindsight is 20/20. All the best, Nonoise |
