Best DIY power cable. Why not make?


Ok perhaps I don't get it.  You have hot, neutral, ground and connectors.  I am looking for advise from those that have found the secret sauce in making power cables or at least those that have had great success.  With all the quality cable and connectors why not make your own?  I refuse to pay $2,000 plus for a power cable that would take a hour to build.  I am seeking your guidance and suggestions.  Thanks!   
goose
@sophie999 - apologies for the delay - been busy :-)

RE: -

Is there a huge advantage in twisting conductors around each other vs just running them next to each other?

Yes there is an advantage to twisting conductors - it actually reduces the effect of EMI/RFI - it’s called the "Proximity Effect" - look it up on the web.

You will find postings that trivialize the impact of this effect, but it is my belief it has a far greater impact on cable perofrmance than those postings makes you believe.

WRT:

@ Williewonka: So I can just use the cheap monoprice wire for the ground component next to higher quality wire for the signal component?

Correct! - but to add to that...
- I believe the neutral conductor can be of lower quality than the signal/live conductor, but it should be of a heavier gauge than the signal/live conductor.
- and the ground should be at least the same gauge as the signal/live conductor
- there is no benefit in making the ground a larger gauge or from a higher quality material

If you think of the conductors as a garden hose ...
- water in a 1/2" diameter hose has a defined pressure.
- attaching a smaller hose to the 1/2" hose would increase pressure and impede water flow in the 1/2" hose
- attaching a larger hose to the 1/2" hose would reduce pressure and enhance water flow in the 1/2" hose.

Due to many other factors it is not a "complete" analogy - but it gets the point across...
- a larger neutral conductor is better for all cables, i.e. Speaker and IC’s as well
- to keep it simple - I just make the neutral twice the gauge of the live/signal conductors

I believe there there are formulas for the ratio of Signal/Live and Neutral conductors, but for the DIYer - getting the exact gauge for the neutral may be problematic.

So - to summarize the three conductors
- SIGNAL/LIVE - highest quality material possible for best results
- NEUTRAL - lower quality than the signal conductor but 2x the Live
- GROUND - any grade will suffice - same gauge as the Live conductor

Having said that - the quality of the neutral highlighted on my web site is actually very good and can be used for both signal/live and neutral conductors. But the finished product is just a "tad’ less responsive than the DH Labs/Furutech cables mentioned.

BTW- you may find comments elsewhere that mixing different gauge conductors in a single cable is not advisable
- but during my cable journey I have not found anything to support this view
 
Hope that helps - Steve



@williewonka

I think that construction with symmetrical gauges and equal quality conductors on all three legs is appropriate for a balanced power configuration. With a balanced power transformer, ground is separate from neutral, and +/-60V is developed across hot-ground and neutral-ground legs, totaling 120V between hot and neutral. For that application I build a PC with a three-twist of all 10awg silver conductors built up from 20awg .999 dead soft silver strands. At current commodity pricing for silver, that’s just $275 for a 1.5m PC.

@dgarretson - I agree with your design approach - specifically for that application - it makes a lot of sense.

May I suggest braiding the three main conductors - not twisting them - it should improve dynamic performance and noise floor even further.

My helix design is for individual component power cables only.

I’ve never dealt with balanced power - thanks for that info.

Regards - Steve
I may try your recipe for the next one.  So far, I'm using a variation of a VH Audio recipe: hot and neutral in a twisted pair, surrounded by the ground wire in a counter-spiral.  For shielding, that bundle is slipped inside a braided copper tube that is grounded at the pronged plug and floated from the IEC plug.  These PCs are killers with Furutech FI-48 ends.  For the next one I'm trying the new Oyaide AP-and AC-004 connectors.  The Oyaides are more economical and look well designed.
Nanotec Systems #308 wire and Furutech FI-11 connectors make a nice PC at reasonable cost. Add a few pennies worth of black heat shrink tubing to the ends for a professional look.