DIY High pass filters for Vandersteen Model 5A Carbon's?

So I just read up on this. The Vandersteen design is a 100 hZ, single order (6dB/octave) high pass filter for the top section.

You could replace both missing cabs with 1 or 2 powered subwoofers. The question now is, how do you manage the crossover? You could do this with the normal features of a receiver or a preamp with integrated bass management (Parasound P5/P7), you could also do this with an external active crossover like a miniDSP or a DEQX.  Some powered subs also offer built in high pass filters.

What you have to watch out for is having at least a 6 dB high pass filter for the speaker cabs. More is fine (12, 24, etc.). 

Best,

E

I have similar concerns with the other folks who have responded. First off the Vandersteen filters are designed to be used with the Vandersteen subwoofer and amp that is housed in the lower half of the speaker.  Without that “lower half” any high pass filter will be dependant on the design of the replacement “lower half”.  If you are planning on rebuilding all this without the Vandersteen subwoofer and amplifier you need to forget about the Vandersteen filter and start from scratch.  In reality if you don’t realize this you are probably in way over your head to get a resultant full range speaker that is anything remotely as good as the original 5A Carbon.  Sorry to be harsh about it but the questions you pose seem to indicate a lack of understanding of the scope of this project.  I’m not saying it can’t be done, but it will be a long slog.

Having said all that, did you, perchance, purchase these components here on AudiogoN?  About four months ago a seller from the Houston area was a selling a set of all the drivers and the head unit from 5A’s (not Carbon) that had been in the hurricane floods last year.  I was tempted by that ad to upgrade my original Model 5’s, but there was no guarantee that the components were still 100% functional.  If indeed, you did buy those with the intent of making a new cabinet, well, good luck with that.  It will be a huge project (yes I’m repeating myself, intentionally).

Now if I have the circumstances all wrong, then please correct me!

Vandersteen has used first order crossovers consisting of one or two high quality capacitors, often soldered to RCA jacks and shrink wrapped.  They should still have these available. You need to tell them the power amp you will use to drive the top end so they can determine the input impedance and supply the right caps.

You are on your own as far as coming up with a bass unit and power amp and crossover to mate with your 5 bits.  My old 4As use a separate crossover that is adjustable for impedance and gain, that was a plug in t the wall unit; I understand the 5s use a battery powered crossover.

You need to find out what the crossover points are as you have everything but the sub.   I have a couple of Hsu subs that are quite adjustable (used only in the video part of my main system)  - if you find out the crossover point of the Vandie bits you've got, you might talk to Hsu about getting a powered sub that would mate with them.  You are probably looking at around $1,000 x2 if that works out.

@wspohn :

You are right, if the OP was going to replace the bass cabinets with Vandersteens then the approach you recommend is ideal. But Vandersteen builds his bass electronics to complement this de-emphasis, something no one else I know of does.

However, if the OP was not going to go that way, this makes it more complicated to replicate, and IMHO not worthwhile. Use a fully active crossover before the amp, and handle it and bass EQ there. With a HT receiver/processor or a preamp like the Parasound P5/P7, this is all built in, though you give up that 1st order matching, but come on, we’re already dealing with a bit of a mash-up. :)

Also, and this is not a popular opinion, Vandersteen's capacitors are crap. You'll do better with alternatives.

Best,

E

No one has addressed the issue of how the top part of the speaker is going to be supported. I would like to see the custom built stand that would be needed to hold that heavy slanted head unit.
As Erik said, the whole thing is a mash-up, and may not be worth the trouble and considerable expense to get it right. And if you did, what would it look like? Frankenspeaker!