adding center speaker to existing stereo system

Erik, you certainly have the right to your opinion, however, I only agree with it for one particular scenario.

I worked in the A/V industry for ~25 years, mainly dealing with mid to upscale products. The latter 15 years was spent with increasing time designing custom home theater and supervising the install. No doubt I have listened to more and a wider variety of home theater than the majority of the people here. From that experience, to agree with your comment, the center speaker would need to be identical to the L & R, not just timbre matched, but identical. Also, it would need to be driven by an amp channel identical to the L & R. The closest center speaker to his L & R is the Olympica Center, however since the OP is talking an A/V receiver for the processing and power, that just doesn't make good sense. Then use a speaker more suited for the A/V receiver, and that will do more harm than good compared to phantom center. Now if he wants to get the Olympica Center, another REF600M monoblock, and a nice processor, that would likely work ok, otherwise, I'll stay with my original recommendation.

Some of the best sounding theaters I did, regardless of price, used all identical speakers with high quality identical amp channels.

tls49 is right. it is pointless to add a speaker different in brand etc from side spkrs if you are going for high end sound. i did it, trust me.

hi @tls49

My experience is that I used to work in making audio equipment for motion picture auditoriums, until Dolby Digital came out, and make my own loudspeakers, on top of being a hobbyist for decades.

I think that while having identical L, R and C speakers is an ideal, it is not the ONLY way to improve sound quality. Well matched speakers, especially with room correction can be a real benefit to dialogue. I know this from personal experience using very different speakers I have made, along with DSP. Would I compare this setup to Spielberg’s? Of course not. That was not the point I wanted to make to the OP.

My first post was not about whether to use identical speakers and amps, but was about how HRTF (head related transfer functions) affect our listening, and why a center channel can enhance the experience more than obvious compared to a phantom center. I really did not argue about how close a match speakers should be. That was all you.

I think the idea that you should ONLY add a matched center is unnecessarily puritanical, and my own listening tests have shown to me that adding a different center, when done right, is a big improvement over a phantom center. Have you done this experiment? I can tell you in my case the sound was absolutely seamless.

Best,

Erik

Hello all, if you have read czechu82’s post, you will see that he just wants to add a center channel so that he can watch tv/movies from time to time.  He does not want to use the center channel to add to the music score.  In this situation, adding a receiver could be a good solution if he doesn’t care as much about tv/movie sound quality.  However, like everyone has agreed, the center speaker should match as closely as possible to the left/right speakers.

@czech82 – I see that you do not have a preamp listed in your system, so I am assuming you are connecting the PS Audio Directstream DAC directly to the REF600M amplifiers.  If this is the case, you can add a receiver, but you need some sort of switching mechanism in the middle (such as a normal preamp or a passive preamp with at least two inputs).  Then make it into a “hybrid” system.

A passive preamp is the cheapest way to do this.  Just connect the PS Directstream and the new receiver to the inputs of the passive preamp.  Then connect the outputs of the passive preamp to the REF600M amplifiers.  You can run the passive preamp at full volume all the time since you are controlling volume from the Directstream or receiver.  Then just switch the passive preamp back and forth between the Directstream and the receiver to use as sources.  Khozmo and Goldpoint are two companies that make excellent passive preamps (in the $400 to $600 price range).  Alternatively, you can get the Goldpoint SW4 input switcher for $376 (does not include a volume control).  The only problem with passive preamp is that you are limited to RCA interconnects.  HT receiver will only have RCA outputs (they will never have XLR outputs) and the passive preamp CANNOT convert an RCA signal to a balanced XLR output.

If you want to use XLR for the Directstream and the REF600M amps, there are two other options. One option is that you will need to get some sort of active preamp that has both XLR and RCA inputs.  This needs to be a very high end and transparent preamp, such as the upper end Krell Illusion or Phantom, or something like an Ayre Acoustics preamp.  There’s a Krell Illusion II on audiogon for $3400, which is about the minimum I would recommend for a highly transparent preamp.  DO NOT get a Krell Phantom III  (only the I and II models are good).  Keep in mind that no preamp is truly transparent and it is going to add some sort of color or sonic signature anyways.

The other option is to get a fully balanced XLR passive or switcher, then get a HT Processor and a third REF600M amp (or equivalent).

So, three options:

 

Option #1:

Sonus Faber center speaker

Receiver

RCA passive preamp or switcher

3 sets of RCA interconnects

 

Option #2:

Sonus Faber center speaker

Receiver

High end preamp (Krell/Ayre)

2 sets of XLR interconnects

1 set of RCA interconnects

 

Option #3:

Sonus Faber center speaker

HT Processor

Monoblock amp (like REF600M)

XLR passive preamp or switcher

4 sets of XLR interconnects (one for center)

 

 

There is a fourth option, but it means spending a whole lot on a new HT processor that is at the level of a decent audiophile preamp and using that HT Processor as the “preamp” for the Directstream DAC.  Options could be Bryston SP, Classe SSP-800 or Krell Foundation.  All three of these have balanced XLR inputs and outputs and make decent preamps.  However, they are not going to be as good as a passive preamp or a Krell Illusion preamp.

 

So, Option #4:

Sonus Faber center speaker

Very good HT processor

Monoblock amp (like REF600M)

4 sets of XLR interconnects.

aux - You are not wrong ----

but what a mess we get into. That's why I suggested a sound bar instead. Simple, and good enough for a listener who wants to watch movies occasionally.