Looking for ideas - new mono blocks for stereo music


Hello!

I am on a bit of a mission to upgrade my equipment and just recently purchased the Esoteric K-01X SACD player.
In my case, the primary focus for critical listening is stereo music (aka red book CD) from the Esoteric.
My current chain is from the Esoteric through the Marantz 8802A into the Bryston 7B-SST2 powering a pair of JBL 1400 Array speakers.
I am very happy with the JBLs and just upgraded to the K-01X (had the X-03SE before).

Right now I would like to hear some suggestions for new mono blocks. I am already planning on adding the Esoteric C-03X(s) to the system to replace the Marantz as (stereo) pre-amp.

The primary focus is detail and resolution as I really love hearing new aspects of CDs that previous equipment couldn't reveal.
Soundstage and instrument placement are also high on the list. Bass slam / impact is not really a priority since I am stuck in an apartment for the time being.
Another factor is heat - I am looking for an amp, not a space heater. Especially considering the already hot summers in Toronto!
The price ceiling for me is somewhere around $20,000/pair

My current short list consists of:
Grandinote
Pass Labs
Simaudio
Mark Levinson

Now it's time for the brainpool (that's you guys!) to have at it :)

Thanks in advance!
128x128eohtar
@rost - I honestly don't know.  I bought them used, but they were only manufactured a year ago.  I do have about 500 hours on them at this point.  I have read that about JC1 amps (requiring 1200-1500 hours) and that was a big concern of mine when I was researching a couple weeks ago.
I heard the Bryston 7BSST3s with an EAR 912 tube preamp and it sounded excellent on Carver Amazing speakers.  Actually, more like superb in the mids and highs.  Upgrading the fuses and duplex are low cost upgrades.  Do not use Bryston A/C cables.  They are inferior sounding. I know as I replaced my BIT20 IT with GroverHuffman 20 amp A/C cables to clean and speed up the sound.
@ auxinput
¨Stock – JC1 has a very refined sound, midrange is very smooth and refined. Emphasis is tilted slightly towards the upper midrange which causes the audio to sound just a little bit thin in the midbass area. Sound is soft. Overall, sound to me is just a little bit low fidelity. It’s very smooth and refined, but just doesn’t sing or have that effect of sounding real.¨

Your above observations are exactly how my JC1s, purchased sometime ago, sounded to me before total break in.Too closed in and to be blunt, dull. In fact I mailed the late Bob Crump (R.I.P.) stating that although I appreciated their smooth refined sound I felt they were lacking top end extension to which he answered and I´m paraphrasing, ´give them time and they will open up nicely´. Which they did.

So I would encourage you to keep them working  with the original fuses for awhile longer and after, if you notice the change in sound I´m speaking about, reevaluate the effects of different fuses. In fact I was ridiculed in a long ago post by another member for recommending  that JC1s require the 1500 hours to finally sound their best. I believe this to be the case with most if not all new components and probably the reason for so much turn around of gear that new owners experience for lack of patience. 

Regards
eohtar OP
  Others that sound (no pun intended) interesting but will be a lot harder
to get a hold of in Canada:
Parasound Halo JC1 - around 6K USD

Good choice the JC1's if you get a pair, in high bias mode they sounded really good on Wilson Alexia's my friend has, and as I said if too expensive the new JC5 stereo is suppose to have the same sound character but cheaper.

Cheers George 
Good Day,
Just to clarify, I did carefully read the OP concerns.  I shared my observations because It took me a long time to appreciate the importance of building a strong foundation for a decent sound system. I shared my experiences because I found myself in a similar situation several years ago - at a cross roads on trying to achieve the best sound for the best value for my dollar.   
 
I like most initially looked at investing in the stuff you see, the components. Its not sexy to consider investing substantial money into the hidden unseen parts, like power delivery. But it is those parts that are the foundation of a system. I have seen people waste money buy throwing money at the problem by switching components and speakers in and out of their systems without ever addressing investing in a strong Power delivery foundation.

The point was not to say that too much power is a bad thing, Rather than to point out that the amps design is more than substantial for the speakers he has and is happy with.

He does not necessarily need new amps. However the amps that he has are most likely not performing to their maximum  performance. Perhaps - 50% maybe -  because they not getting enough power/ electricity to their internal components. If his amps are at not at peak performance neither is his system. 

The Power Chords I listed are solely engineered for that purpose. That is all they do. They are specifically designed to insure that maximum power/ electricity is delivery to each component so that the components  are operating at their maximum performance. The more Power the greater detail is achieved.

Additionally adding subs does not translate to to blowing out the neighborhood. Easily achieved by volume control.  His speakers are rated at 32hz at the low end, to further achieve getting down towards lets say 20Hz with out investing a ton of money he would need to get a sub.

By getting a sub to integrate with the system it would expand the mid to lower mid range increasing the overall sound stage and exposing a level of detail that he is seeking. This is unattainable with just his speakers alone.  That sound stage would also have greater spacial separation while simultaneously  achieving an overall lower bass response. 

This is just another long term cost effective way of looking at achieving or solving the issues the OP is facing.