“Oppomod” linear power supply

I also suggest not (rpt not) tightening the bolt holding down the transformer and wrapping the transformer *twice* with mu metal, maintaining a 1/2 inch separation between layers with cotton or whatever. Off the top of my head one layer is 73% effective and two layers are 90%. Cork works well to isolate the circuit boards and to damp the capacitor bank, weaving a serpentine strip through them.

Not sure if my response is on point, but I had a $375 proprietary mod done on on my Oppo 103 by Stereo Dave's Audio Alternative and it was totally amazing.  The improvement in SQ was apparent from the first measure of the music.  The noise level was substantially lowered and sound stage was vastly more expansive.  I have had a dozen mods on gear over the years and none have been more worthwhile... nor more cost-effective.

It is clear that mods to the stock Oppo CD can be extremely worthwhile.  At any rate, the stock Oppo players, to my ears, are the best bargain in the audio world.  

@ptss , mine was the 103 but I'm not then, or now, using any kind of isolation or conditioning. One thing I have to advise is that there are two versions of the OPPOMOD. The first one generated lots of heat and they went to a "cooler" version. The one I got wasn't from OPPOMOD and although the audio and video improvements are commendable, it does get hot on the longer movies.

Supposedly the Clones has always been on the cooler side of hot. I'd never dispute what @auxinput advises but more capacitors aside, I'd contact Funjoe over at Clones Audio for his take as well. He's an honest guy and he'll get back to you.

All the best,
Nonoise

My only experience with discrete regulators has to do with analog audio stages. I’ve used the Sparkos Labs discrete voltage regulators (which are ran in "Class A" and based on the same circuit in their op amps). The result is a faster and higher resolution sound to the audio. Smoother with less noise from the "A/C" line. I suspect they would improve digital sections too.
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The heat from the OPPOMOD power supply comes from both the power supply diodes mounted onto larger fin-based heatsinks in air and the voltage regulators mounted on an aluminum L-bracket. The L-bracket makes flat contact with the bottom of the Oppo case and distributes heat that way. The Sparkos discrete regulators I have used are direct swap-in replacements for the monolithic LM78xx/79xx and they will still generate heat, which means you need to bolt them to some sort of heat sink as well.
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The Clones Audio does have their power supply diodes bolted to a 1/4" thick piece of metal. However, it looks like their voltage regulators are floating in air, so i"m not sure what they are doing with this circuit. Maybe the discrete elements are circuits placed around the regulators to help them become more efficient (and possible generate less heat as a bi-product). I can’t be sure here without asking them directly (which you could do if you wanted).
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That being said, the new 203/205 models have switching power supplies that are about 2/3 the size of the older 103/105 models. I suspect they did not need as current since they dropped the FPGA chip that was required for Darbee and also dropped all streaming services from the firmware.

@ptss

I did indeed have nearly $8k’s worth of a power treatment and grounding solution (Alan Maher Designs) at the time the OPPO MOD was added to my 103...have added even more since.

The 103 is not well ventilated but I’ve had no issues with heat retention at all and my install was also done at EVS and is similar to what Geoff describes above.