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Please tutor me on some integrated amp basics.

I’ve recently purchased Magico A3 speakers and a VPI Classic 2 SE turntable with an Ortofon Black 2M moving magnet cartridge. I have a Marantz SA 8005 CD/SACD player to play the few (maybe a hundred or so) CD’s in my possession.
I’ve mostly vinyl albums and no streaming sources. I’m next going to upgrade my old amp/preamp purchased back in the late 70’s with a new, probably integrated, one and am starting to do some research.

Here’s where I need some tutoring. A lot has changed since the seventies with the advent of digital technology. As well as I need to learn more about amplification components in the high end of audio technology. I keep running across terms I don’t understand. I’ll give you a list and if someone would be kind enough to explain these basics I’d be obliged.

For instance I was reading about the Hegel H360 integrated amp that Magico’s Alon Wolf recommended for their A3’s. The review mentioned they were a Class A/B amp, another person commented Class A’s were better, and a third person said he didn’t care for Class D amps. What do these classes signify? 

A second question is about DACs. I generally understand their purpose of the DAC, converting a digital to an analog signal. However my only digital device, the Marantz SA 8005 already has a DAC, ostensibly of good quality. The turntable ’s Ortofon cartridge would not need to play through a DAC, I presume. Would I bypass the CD’s players DAC if I purchase the higher quality Hegel H360 integrated amp?. Or could I find an equivalent integrated amp without an integral DAC?

On the other side of the equation I understand the turntable’s cartridge cannot play through the Hegel without first going through a phono stage. My old Phase Linear 4000 preamp you just plugged the turntables RCA cables into the back of the preamp and you were done. What’s that about? Do they make equivalent integrated amps to the Hegel H360 with integrated phono stages already in place, so I can just plug my turntable in as I’ve been able to do before. The amps don’t seem to be well integrated at all if you have to add a pricey phono stage to make them work, and end up having an extra DAC. That’s just me whining.

Third question is what are monoblocks, how are they used, and what are their advantages to a system? They were used at one of my speaker auditions.

I figured out the answer to what amplifier damping was myself, so I’m sparing you that one, but what does the term impedance mean? I keep coming across that.

Thank goodness I don’t have to figure out the cabling nightmare yet. Thanks for any help.

Mike
skyscraper
twoleftears's avatar
twoleftears
5,318 posts
 

@skyscaper I strongly recommend you don't buy cables (phono, interconnect, speaker, power) based solely on readings reviews or forum feedback.  You need to put several makes/models in your system and see if you hear a difference, and if so, how big.  If you get into this seriously, the Cable Company has a lending library.  I don't know if Uptown A. could lend you a few cables to try (what brands does he carry?).  There are probably hundreds of cable brands out there, from huge corporations to lots of individuals working over a hot soldering iron in their garage.  Each and every one of them has their proponents.  There are cables at every price level: "budget", value/mid-line, expensive, stratospheric.  I'm not going to mention my current favorite, because that will probably just trigger a bunch of other recommendations, and there are already many, many cable threads on this forum that you can easily look at.  There is no hard-and-fast rule concerning % of total cost to put into cables, but it obviously doesn't make sense either to have things too disproportionate.  If it's electrically sound, zip cord will surely work, and also provide you with an excellent base-line against which to make comparisons.  Just try and think about something else until February.

You could think about getting a dedicated 20amp line installed running to your listening room.

There are five or six companies that all make very good isolation transformers.  Field reports suggest that they can indeed hum.  There are some good ones a little less expensive than the Furman, it's just that (a) I could source it locally, and it was returnable, and (b) forum feedback suggested it was less susceptible to hum than some other brands.

Isolation transformers are heavy.  If you have a strong back and don't mind schlepping, and can ensure returnability, this may be something you might want to experiment with.

ieales's avatar
ieales
1,201 posts
 
Mike, http://ielogical.com/Audio/#PowerConditioning is the link. It’s Linux, so case sensitive.

Failing that, http://www.ielogical.com then Passions then HiFi then Audiophilia Redux and scroll down to Power CONditioning about 80% of the way down. [What browser does not work? On a smart phone, hold the menu for a second or two to have the menu display]

You may want to revisit http://ielogical.com/Audio/CableSnakeOil.php regarding cables..  All cables sound different and different in all systems. It cannot be otherwise without repealing the laws of physics. There isn’t a wagon big enough to cart away some makers’ B.S.

builder3
758 posts
 
Mike, anything reasonable won’t be an issue. You’ll have to look for it, but I had some Belden plenum-rated braided wire that was great. Basically, zip-wire on steroids. Bought it originally for some low-voltage wiring, used the remainder short-term with a pair of speakers. Probably was 14 gauge.
This looks similar -https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BWS20SO/ref=psdc_464416_t2_B00CTWDNS8
inna
7,296 posts
 
Mike, I think you could start a thread asking what others use with their Magico speakers. Foregone conclusion - most use quite expensive cables, and they don't do it for nothing. There is also a matter of sound preference, equally good cables will not sound exactly the same.
I would put digital aside for the moment, interconnects and power cord for the cd player can be done last. Speaker cables and power cord for the Luxman is the priority, and I would go with the VPI tonearm cable unless I was prepared to pay a few times that.
Getting wall current right is very important indeed, but it is a somewhat separate task, though the better the wall current the less difference between power cords.
Another thought is that although initial expense is high, if you keep your equipment for decades it won't be that much per year. I spend about $100 per month on the equipment on average and it is not very little, I do have expensive cables.
skyscraper OP
830 posts
 
Twoleftears, thanks for some excellent advice/ I'll isolate one of the three 20 amp circuits I wired into the Entertainment (Listening ) Room for the stereo system  only.  I won't buy any cables until after the speakers arrive and I'll check with Uptown Audio and Audiotronics locally to see what they offer and could provide as loaners.  Dealers form DC might be willing to parcel post wires around as opposed to items like amps.  

I'll research isolation transformers too and can probably still haul them around. Maybe not in a few years though. Gravity appears to increasing if you as me.

Ieales. first link is working perfectly now, thanks. Second looks interesting too. I'll read it soon as I'm done with these replies. If we could roll back some of these laws of physics you mentioned maybe the isolation transformers might get a little lighter to deal with.

Builder3, thanks for the link. That wire is almost being given away compared to some of the rest I've run across. Might be a good temporary fix. 

Inna, the VPI cable does sound like a logical choice that wouldn't break the bank. Stupider things have happened, but I don't think VPI would sell a cable that would make their own equipment sound poorly. I think there is some kind of upgraded wiring on the tonearm already with the VPI Classic 2's SE model. Speaker cords and power cable first it is, then. The CD player isn't in the same league as the other equipment anyway.

Amortized over time, none of this is that expensive if you look it it that way. And once an item is paid off it doesn't seem to matter anyway. It's just on to the next thing. I would like to have all this wrapped by the Spring though, so I can get on to my new wood working shop build, incidentally where my old stereo equipment will be utilized. I've got to get that done before I'm too old to lift heavy,  trusses plywood, and shingles up to the roof too. 

Again appreciate all your helpful suggestions. They're music to my ears.

Mike

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