My Amp is Broken - Not Sure What to Do - Any Recommendations?


I went to turn on my Audio Research SD135 amplifier the other day, but it will not turn on. According to the Audio Research service technician I spoke to, the problem is a broken Thermal Trak module chip. He said that it is a temperature sensing component, and that replacements are no longer being manufactured. He said that it is a known problem, and that Audio Research will give me credit to purchase an Audio Research amplifier from an Audio Research authorized dealer. 

I was wondering if Audio Research makes anything powerful enough to drive Vandersteen 3A Signature speakers (which need between 100 - 200 watts of power)? I am using an Audio Research SP8 Mk II as a pre-amp.

I don't really have much of a budget and am not sure what to do. I would appreciate any advice. Thank you.
distortions
Oh, there is one other option I could suggest. Vandersteens are not the most articulate speakers out there, so you can probably procrastinate doing a bridge rectifier mod to it, but there is a PS Audio 200C amplifier on eBay right now. I think he has come down at least 100, and it may be 100 and free shipping, I don't recall if he was throwing in shipping or not initially. $700 is still a little high for that amp, but it will drive the Vandys with no problems. I have a friend who is borrowing one of my 2 PS amps for his Vandy 2CE Signatures and he loves it. Obviously owning 2 of them, you know that for a transistor amplifier I really like them for the money. BTW, I would try offering him $550, and even that may be high for a stock amp, but no way would I pay more than 600 shipped, and make sure it's insured, clumsy delivery people can destroy an amp with the monster coil it has if they drop it the wrong way.

I think the slew rate is a crazy 400V per millisecond, my tube amp is 60? It owns speakers, back in the day it was one of only a few that could really drive the big Appoge speakers, which went down to 2 ohms. You will fry the amp if you plug or unplug your preamp or speakers while it's turned on though,  and the relay buzzes. A lot of folks think it's the coil, but the relay chatters, if you go that way, there is a company that makes a direct replacement for about 60 dollars. It's one of those, if it bothers you things. It's worth it because you would have to spend a ton to get another transistor amp that sounds as good, much less that can drive a load like the 200C or 200CX.

The other thing is, like most amps of its age, the bridge rectifiers suck! So at some point you really should replace them with Fred's, Hexfreds, or Stealth diodes, I prefer to use IXYS Freds from Partsconnexion, or Michael Percy Audio.  Anyone who can solder should be able to easily replace them for you. It wouldn't hurt to add some nice bypass caps to the power supply. One of mine has a TX2575 resistor on the input, and I am probably going to go through and replace all the resistors in it. I am a detail freak, it is just a shade dark, but like the old Forte F44 preamp, it's actually a pretty awesome viscerally pleasing sound, which is why I have never gone that far with one. I have replaced the caps on the boards with Black Gates, but the bridge rectifiers are what it really needs to fully come into its own. I have been told that some Levenson amps can really control speakers, I can't speak to that, but the PS amp owns what ever I have thrown at them.
 
“Vandersteen’s aren’t the most articulate...”

wait, what?  3A sigs will reveal the differences between whatever you put in front of them. 
Lous is correct, the 3s are warm and hide a lot of warts on the top end. Likely why they’re often used with rock music as a source, esp. CDs
+1 @Bigboltz,
-1 @ glowworm
If anyone finds Vandy's 'warm' or 'not articulate' aren't using the right equipment, or haven't set them up correctly.
Bob
Look, I have B&W 801M’s with all caps in series with the speakers bypassed with Audyn True Copper Max caps. Thiel CS-7 speakers, Paradigm Studio Reference 100 V2’s Ellis Audio 1801’s, KEF Reference 105s I have had Quad ELS57s, Acoustat 3300’s Acoustat Mdl 3s, Vandersteen 1Bs, 2CE Signatures, etc. All the Vandersteen speakers that I have heard, including 3A Signatures as I recall, sound like pretty good speakers with blankets over the tweeters. As a test, I bypassed the T-H-R-E-E capacitors IN SERIES on the 2CE Signatures tweeters with a .1uf V-Cap, it made ears bleed. They knocked down they highs so the tweeters were not crazy hot. As a test, I installed a pair of Hiquphon tweeters, they didn’t have the range of the Vandersteen tweeters, and the crossover was tuned to the Vandersteen tweeters, but the details were now there without the harsh highs as they should have been all along. A friend was over and immediately fell in love with them. I explained that with those tweeters there would be issues, but he loves them anyway, and he wanted nothing to do with them without and especially with the V-Caps until I decided to try out the Hiquphons. So, I know bright from dark, and frankly I now have a full range driver and with no crossover whatever, that is THE most detailed speaker I have EVER heard. In fact I pretty much had to revamp my entire stereo because of the ability of these drivers to revel details. Anyway, Vandersteens excel at masking upstream issues. They sound very musical, very enjoyable unless you are about really drilling down on detail. Detail can ruin an otherwise beautiful song. Poor recordings, less than awesome equipment, etc., etc., are all good reasons to love Vandersteen speakers. Relentless details are not for everyone! If you love Vandersteens, that’s great, enjoy them. Everyone has different goals where their listening is concerned. Find yours, and enjoy before you end up with a ridiculous list of gear that you have bought and sold!