@daveyf
Of course you're right and it's not just the subjective priorities of the listener (aka as 'taste'). We also have to account for the synergy (or not) with the turntable and the rest of the system. Not to mention the system / room interface. No, I'm not suggesting there's an easy way out of your nightmare......
But at least we would no longer have to put up with the bias of reviewers, who are part of the system we want to change. Obviously we would have to accept ownership bias from the people reporting on their experiences. But the more input from different people you gather on the same tonearm/cartridge combinations, the more dependable the outcome might become. A Wikipedia of sorts....
It won't solve everything of course. Think about the Denon DL-103, generally acknowledged as a 'classic'. All those fans can't be wrong, right? So out of curiosity I bought one (a $250 cartridge will allow this) and tried it in all my tonearms as well as a variety of headshells (hadn't mentioned those yet). Whatever I tried, it sounded horrible in every combination. Sometimes you can polish all you want, but a turd is still a turd.....