Does anyone care to ask an amplifier designer a technical question? My door is open.


I closed the cable and fuse thread because the trolls were making a mess of things. I hope they dont find me here.

I design Tube and Solid State power amps and preamps for Music Reference. I have a degree in Electrical Engineering, have trained my ears keenly to hear frequency response differences, distortion and pretty good at guessing SPL. Ive spent 40 years doing that as a tech, store owner, and designer.
.
Perhaps someone would like to ask a question about how one designs a successfull amplifier? What determines damping factor and what damping factor does besides damping the woofer. There is an entirely different, I feel better way to look at damping and call it Regulation , which is 1/damping.

I like to tell true stories of my experience with others in this industry.

I have started a school which you can visit at http://berkeleyhifischool.com/ There you can see some of my presentations.

On YouTube go to the Music Reference channel to see how to design and build your own tube linestage. The series has over 200,000 views. You have to hit the video tab to see all.

I am not here to advertise for MR. Soon I will be making and posting more videos on YouTube. I don’t make any money off the videos, I just want to share knowledge and I hope others will share knowledge. Asking a good question is actually a display of your knowledge because you know enough to formulate a decent question.

Starting in January I plan to make these videos and post them on the HiFi school site and hosted on a new YouTube channel belonging to the school.


128x128ramtubes
Many people believe that SET tube amplifier give more mid range magic than Push pull tube amplifier.
The reason for this is because most SET amps act like tone controls. Here is a typical, response graph of a set amp into a very easy Kanton simulated load. It’s the wavy line.
  Here is the Jadis SE 300B monoblocks.
Fig.1 Jadis SE300B, frequency response at 1W into 8 ohms (top at 10kHz) and into simulated speaker load (right channel dashed, 1dB/vertical div.).
https://www.stereophile.com/images/396JADFIG1.jpg

Note: how much higher the 700hz to 2khz (midrange) is compared to the rest, there’s your midrange emphasis and your tone control response.

The straight line is what it does into a fixed 8ohm resistor,, which no speaker is.

Cheers George


HI, Roger here with a question.

I would like to hear how each of you figured out how much power you needed to buy in watts?

I would appreciate the following information in your response. 

Your listening level LOUD SPL (preferably measured at 1 meter from the speaker with a REAL SPL meter. Your low listening level.  If you are using a cell phone app then you have confirmed it?

Your speaker sensitivity?

Listening Distance from speakers?

How many watts at your load is the amp is rated to supply?



@shkong78
Many people believe that SET tube amplifier give more mid range magic than Push pull tube amplifier.Do you agree on the notion as designer of tube amplifier?If so, could tell me why it is so?

There are some things about SET amplifiers that can be magic. I have always found the simplest circuit that can do the job well will do it best.

Here are some things that are special about SET amps

  • They have very simple circuits
  • THe output transformer runs on only one side of the BH curve never crossing through zero.
  • They are class A by nature.

Not all SET amplifiers are good, they are often light on specs. The important specs are

  • Distortion vs level and frequency. His helps avoiding a really bad one.
  • Damping doesnt matter so much if you are using it in a bi-amp situation where it only drives the midrange/tweeter. Use an adequate SS or tubes amp for the bottom.
  • Some are noisy. Many don't spec noise. Somehow you have to find out.

Explore the idea of Bi-amping with a line level crossover. We have developed a nice mono amp where the crossover is built in. The bass part is push pull about 15 watts and the top is SET at 2.5 watts. Because IM distortion is eliminated less power is required.
Post removed 
Ramtubes 11-26-2018:

HI, Roger here with a question.

I would like to hear how each of you figured out how much power you needed to buy in watts?

I would appreciate the following information in your response.

Your listening level LOUD SPL (preferably measured at 1 meter from the speaker with a REAL SPL meter. Your low listening level. If you are using a cell phone app then you have confirmed it?

Your speaker sensitivity?

Listening Distance from speakers?

How many watts at your load is the amp is rated to supply?


As I mentioned earlier in the thread I listen to a lot of classical symphonic music that has been engineered with minimal or no dynamic compression. Two such recordings, which I believe have just about the widest dynamic range in my collection, are Stravinsky’s “Firebird Suite” on Telarc (Robert Shaw conducting the Atlanta Symphony), and Prokofiev’s “Romeo and Juliet” (excerpts) on Sheffield Lab (Erich Leinsdorf conducting the Los Angeles Philharmonic). I have examined the waveforms of those recordings using a professional audio editing program (Sound Forge Pro), and by doing so I have found the difference in volume between their loudest notes and their softest notes to be approximately 55 db, which is (to me) amazing.

Correspondingly, at my 12 foot listening distance I have measured peak SPLs on those recordings of close to 105 db, with the softest notes being in the vicinity of 50 db. I used a Radio Shack digital SPL meter for these measurements, set for C-weighting and fast response.

My speakers (Daedalus Ulysses) are rated at 97.5 db/1w/1m, and have a very flat impedance curve with a specified nominal impedance of 6 ohms. My 12 foot listening distance corresponds to 3.66 meters. Putting aside room effects for the moment I assume that SPL produced by a box-type dynamic speaker such as those falls off at 6 db per doubling of distance, which means an 11 db reduction going from 1 meter to 12 feet. I conservatively add in 3 db to reflect the presence of two speakers (as I understand it that figure will actually be closer to 6 db at my centered listening position when both speakers are producing similar signals), and I add in perhaps 3 db for “room gain.”

97.5 -11 + 3 + 3 = 92.5 db at the listening position for 1 watt per channel. Let’s call it 93 db.

I add in about 3 db of margin to the 105 db I want my amp/speaker combination to be able to produce at the listening position. So the required minimum amplifier power (into 6 ohms) is:

105 + 3 - 93 = 15 dbW (decibels above 1 watt)

15 dbW = 32 watts.

To answer your question about my amplifier, for several years prior to just recently I was using a VAC Renaissance 70/70 MkIII, rated at 70 wpc. I recently changed to a Pass XA25, which is specified as a class A amplifier rated at 25 wpc into 8 ohms and 50 wpc into 4 ohms. Per JA’s measurements, though, it is capable of 80 and 130 wpc into those impedances. I presume that most of that increase represents the amp’s capability after leaving class A, although per JA’s comments some of the increase apparently reflects differences in the distortion percentages the ratings and measurements are based on.

Best regards,

-- Al