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2.1 / 2.2 Request for Amp Suggestions

Recently, I purchased a Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum II and a pair of Magnepan 1.7s.

There's a noticable gap in the bass that I'd like to rectify. I don't use the system for TV/movies, though I probably will at some point. I prefer accuracy over thunderous response and am looking at the Magnepan DWM panels. My concern is that the power in the amp is definitely not enough to drive the DWMs, not to mention that the amp is already wired for the 1.7s at 4 ohms, so mucking with the impedance will probably result in blowing fuses and tubes.  The room size is on the large side. The 1.7s and amp seem to be matched right now, both for power and resolution, especially after rolling in a Telefunken preamp tube and getting the 1.7 placement pushed out to nearly 5 feet. Again, I'm absent the bass I want and am unwilling to muddy the 1.7 sound by pushing them back toward the walls. 

With this in mind, I'm thinking about using the preamp output on the integrated amp and connecting it to a secondary unit. What kind of amp should I use? I don't need an integrated amp as unit #2 and am struggling with the price of a Rogue Audio M180, even used. What would you do in this situation and why? 
128x128dunham_john
dunham_john's avatar
dunham_john OP
28 posts
 
@yogiboy 
Thanks. I'll still be using the line outs for the Magnepan 1.7s. The preamp out is meant to be used in conjunction with the line out and not in place of it for the reason you mentioned. 

I'll check out the SVS, just so I can get a feel for the sound quality. 

Has anyone ever used the A120s that Speakercity USA used to resell? They look very similarly spec'd to the Rythmiks that @mzkmxcv (sorry, tag isn't working) mentioned. 
lukaske
307 posts
 
Preamp is o.k. Use a poweramp from about 200 W or more. Use the good cables: to much silver is detailed and precise in high and mid,less deep in bass. Use copper wire or Rhodium (even golden plugs . Do’nt use a extra subwoofer: you gonna change  your music. I prefer for a power-amp.:Gamut, Ear,  McInt.,Pass ( but he is not so good in “mid”). And powercord is very important.
Also a good combination.:preamp:tube;poweramp.:transistor. You have to find a good match. Good luck looking for the right soltution.
mechans
3,048 posts
 
So what is a fast (tight) musical sub for under $1,000
m-db's avatar
m-db
937 posts
 
If your looking for the ability to optimally locate your main speakers and still have an independent level of adjustability to integrate with your current speakers to your taste and more importantly your room you might want to compare the setup procedures for powered DSP equipped subwoofers.

Non comparative subwoofer reviews and sub reviews in general may have little bearing on your environment. Like most things audio unless you've actually experienced it beware of the claim of perfect integration.   

Consider a subwoofer purchase as an audio investment that will provide you service now and into the future to complement even the most exotic so called full range main speaker purchases.  

Currently the flexibility and quality of DSP adjustability varies. I'd suggest by studying the setup procedures of two top manufactures offering their second versions of subwoofer DSP, JL Audio's Fathom V2 series and their CR-1 crossover along with Velodyne Digital Drive Plus series User's Interface and Manual/s. Have fun with it.  
dunham_john's avatar
dunham_john OP
28 posts
 
@m-db 
Thank you for this advice. I suspect you are right. I recall my father saying the same thing about the Velodynes self-correction capability years ago. That's the same DSP circuit you're referring to, right?

I wonder if the DSP has evolved enough to detect interference frequency off at the cross over points.
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