What is the best way to tame a slightly bright speaker?


I know the answer is get a speaker that isn't bright,  but I've got a pair of TAD Evolution Ones that I like quite a bit except that the magnesium midrange and beryllium tweeter are just a little bright for me.  I'm driving them with a D'Agostino Classic Stereo, which I needed to drive my old speakers but I don't need all that muscle for the TADs (89db sensitivity, 4 ohm impedance {doesn't drop below 4 ohms}) recommended power 50 to 250 watts. 

I'd like to get  an amp that does voices especially well.  I know somebody posted recently that a subwoofer solved his brightness problem and I may look into that at some point.  Any and all suggestions are welcome.
128x128tomcy6
Need to know which cables, power conditioner do you use one, power cables stock or aftermarket, high end rack or not, room setup, and of course what is your source.

What setup which works for one set of speakers may not work for another, so this might mean a retuning of the system.

Please feel free to contact us, we are really good at system matching and tuning. 

Dave and Troy
Audio Doctor NJ
Room treatment for reflections is high up the list.

Electronically, it would be to increase the resistor value in the tweeter’s high-pass filter on the crossover (e.g. go from a 2ohm resistor to 2.7ohm resistor). This would reduce the level of the tweeter by a db or so and leave everything else the same. But you’d need to be OK removing the drivers, crossover, and soldering. Tweeter crossover capacitors could also be swapped out for more boutique brands with a warmer sound signature. A couple of resistors would just be a few bucks. Boutique caps could get much more expensive depending on brand and values needed.

Otherwise, cable switching (or biwiring) could give you the normal audiophile "solution" to tone controls!

One might also consider a dsp solution for room eq.

A sub does not "solve" bright treble; it would rather change presentation if low end is lacking. Not the same thing.

TBH, everything except room treatment and the resistor change would be of dubious value for money in my eyes.
Placement along with room treatments....   I recently moved, my last room was a nightmare.   New room has better dimensions but more importantly a thick carpet.

I used my Veleodyne sms 1 to measure the new room's low freq response and it was damn near flat... the sms applied very little eq...   the old room has a serious room mode centered at 40hz that really muddied the sound ,  the sms 1 used a lot of eq for the old room, -9dB  and unlike the old room, the new room has no clap echo.  

This system has never sounded better and the only thing that changed was the room....  I know its probably not possible to set up in another room but my experience really demonstrated how much the room and it's properties play into the overall sound .  
The TAD’s are had a little too much air from my time demoing them. Coaxial drivers have a very wide and uniform dispersion pattern and perhaps that’s why KEF rolls off the off-axis response of their drivers quite aggressively, whereas TAD chose not to, resulting in perhaps more detail but a sound that will be much more aggressive in the highs.

Your best bet is probably some form of multi-point measurement room correction software like ARC or Diraclive and tune it to a more rolled off target curve.