Modifying Philharmonic 3 crossovers


Hi, everyone I'm new to modding so I'm going to need a bit of help. I have a pair of Philharmonic 3 speakers and I see that they have Claritycap PX capacitors and I'd like to  change them out with Claritycap's new CMR line up although I'm not sure how to start. I see that two of the capacitors are rated at 20uf & 250Vdc although there aren't any CMR caps that are rated at 20uf only 18 and 22uf and 400Vdc. I'd like to upgrade the capacitors although I'm not sure how I would proceed. I would very much appreciate advice on this topic. Thanks!
128x128jonny1080
Well, I don't know about bass. In the pass through, they tend to be a little dark.

However ... as shunts in a woofer, film caps absolutely rule, and CSA caps have a very nice price point. Several modders have been impressed by how changing the woofer caps improves.
Mind you, this is a dangerous place. If you are replacing an electrolytic you really need to know the ESR and compensate for changes.
Please look at the sizes and weights though, CMR caps are effing huge and heavy! :)

Make sure to plan for that.
Based on my research, I don't believe I have any electrolytic caps in the crossover, just solen 400v PB series Polypropylene fast caps and for the mids & highs there are clarity PX series caps.
I'm not sure what you mean by "in pass through".
Hahaha, I'll definitely keep the size and weight of the CMR in mind.

Also, I see that for the mids & highs there are two caps. LOL, is it ok to mix and match brands?
Sorry Jonny,
In the first schematic of this page:

https://speakermakersjourney.blogspot.com/2016/02/crossover-basics.html

All components are in series with the drivers.


In the second, I added a coil (L2) which is in parallel with the driver.


For the tweeter and midrange, stick to the same serial caps.

Caps on a woofer tend to be very large, and in parallel, in those cases going with less expensive options makes a lot of sense.


Best,
E
That article was very informative Erik, thanks! Okay, so if the caps are in serial then stick with the same caps, got it. How about one type of caps for the tweeter and one type for midrange?