What makes a 20A IEC rated for 20 amps?

@ozzy

Here is some info about the unit the manufacturer provided in response to my inquiries.

The unit does not include electronic processing of the power; that is, no isolation transformers (like Furman, CPT and others), no power wave-shaping (like ExactPower) and no power regeneration (like PS Audio Power Plants). The parallel electronic filters used are made by exact calculation using selected capacitors and inductors to catch the particular frequencies that affect the sound.

This differs from other designs that use series filters in line to the power cords and act like resistors to limit maximum current to the power cords and limit dynamics of the sound.

The unit has all outlets wired in parallel rather than in series (aka daisy-chained). All outlets have the same length of wiring configured in a star distribution.

The surge suppressor included in the unit is based on varistors. The 20A IEC inlet helps manage power surges, too.

The unit is designed to accept and manage all current the common wall outlet can provide. So the unit includes no internal fuses, relying on the home electrical mains fuses to trip if issues arise with the power mains.

This conditioner did something that no other conditioner has done: the apparent loudness of the audio system increased dramatically without any physical adjustment in volume control levels. This was noted after the unit was inserted into the system for 48 hours. Typical burn-in time is around 500 hours. The dealer said the unit lowers overall resistance of power to the system, which translates in improved clarity and dynamics, as well as perceived loudness.

20A IEC are used to enable a more secure and reliable connection to the component.

I actually completely disagree with this statement.  I have 15A IEC connectors that actually make a better/snugger connection then even the 20A Furutech. 

Basically, 20A IEC vs 15A IEC has to do with electrical component standards.  This ensures that somebody does not use or connect a piece of equipment to an inadequate outlet/source.  Generally speaking, a 15A outlet/connector is usually wired to only allow capable transfer of 15A.  This usually means 12awg wiring.  For 20A IEC, it is recommended to use 10awg romex wiring (although sometimes even 12awg is okay for a short run).  Trying to wrangle 20A of current from a 15A outlet/wiring can cause the main circuit breaker to trip and/or cause possible electrical fires.
As far as current capability, a good 15A IEC connector can certainly carry 20A of electrical current.  This is true for most of the good items such as Furutech or Neotech or Hubbell.  However, be aware that there are several 15A cheap power strips or adapters that use very small gauge or thin metal for conductors. 

If you want to change the 20A IEC inlet on your equipment, you can certainly do that.  However, keep in mind that you are now violating "electrical standard" connections.  It should not hurt anything if you use a good high current power cord and outlet.  However, if you ever decide to sell the equipment, you can be liable for lawsuit if the new owner does not properly connect it to an adequate power source and results in fire/damage.
The Furutech FI-32(R) 20A IEC is actually not bad for $203.  It is phospher bronze instead of pure copper like the NCF plugs.  But it's still really not that bad.
Wattgate has a 350i HC Rh rhodium palted 20A IEC for $122.  However, it's pretty much a multi-plated brass conductor, but definitely cheaper.

celander, auxinput,

Thanks for that information. 
But, is the 20A IEC actually thicker than a 15A IEC? 

ozzy

Looking for a 20 amp power cable for a PS Audio P20. Any suggestions? 

I have a 20A power cord that I am now using with a relatively new 15A Power amp. I'm using a Voodoo Cable IEC adapter, and it works great. No loss in performance, and reasonably priced. They make a 15A and a 20A adapter. https://voodoocable.net/product/in-line-iec-adapter-2/