I need some turntable guidance


I am wanting to acquire a turntable but don't have enough information to make an appropriate purchase just yet. My two systems:

preamp-  Mac C2300 tube and has built in phono

Krell MCX 350 monos and PBN Audio KAS speakers

Mac MC275 tube amp and Klipschorn speakers with Volti upgrades

What price range should I be looking in? I want something that sounds great but is also appropriate for my level of gear. In other words, I don't want to under buy or over buy. What TTs would you guys suggest to me? 



wemfan
As you've discovered, there is indeed a wide range of opinion on what can be done.  I've owned your preamp and have years of experience dating from the early 70s with your amp and K-horns.  Here is some more food for thought:

Your C2300 has one of the very best phono sections ever made.  Good enough that Harry Pearson had one in his reference system for about a year.  A remarkable feat.  The MC section is especially good and features on-the-fly loading adjustment.  Use it and you won't be disappointed.

Your budget is huge and can accommodate the very best that's out there.  You will want to consider how you want your music presented.  My belief is that matching the cartridge to your speakers makes the biggest difference since they are the two fundamental halves of the transducer system.  The K-horns tend to be a bit bright and will benefit from good definition at lower frequencies.  Consider a high end Koetsu or Dynavector.  Note that both require very precise alignment to deliver rewarding results.  Figure on $5K.

To get the best out of the cartridge, you will need a tonearm that has substantial set-up adjustability and delivers rock-stable repeatability on those adjustments. I personally prefer arms that have VTA on-the-fly, but you may not. If so, look at Graham or Tri-Planar.  If not, consider SME or Ortofon.  The VTA OTF and tonearms all have lots of thread input here.  Figure on $6K, and more for enhanced models.  You will also need a cable.  Lots to choose from there and I found a Cardas Golden Reference that suited my needs for $600 new.  I would suggest not spending a lot on a cable until you have the other bits and pieces sorted out.

The turntable must hold the selected speed endlessly and silently.  It may also have to absorb environmental vibrations (e.g footfalls, nearby truck or rail traffic, etc.).  For me that meant SOTA, which has one of the very best suspension systems ever produced.  I also prefer belt drive for that reason.  If you don't have those concerns, VPI, Pro-Ject, Clearaudio, Basis, Thorens and certain vintage gear might be appropriate.  A brand-new SOTA Sapphire sells for $4K loaded.  Vacuum versions are about $5K.  The other brands also sell in a similar range for very solid products. Surf the forums here for info on whether the vacuum system may be right for you. 

FWIW, I believe the biggest improvements are to be found in the cartridge and tonearm.  They combine to control the point of contact, and that's where Edison's science happens.

Hope this input proves useful for you.  Keep us posted on your progress and enjoy the adventure; remember always this is a hobby.  Happy listening!
effischer, the Koetsu requires a considerably heavier arm than you would put on a SOTA. The Ortofon Windfeld Ti is very neutral, will match up with just about any system and is one of the best tracking cartridges you can buy. It handily out runs my Koetsu in that regard on the Hi Fi News test record. It also works well in a wider variety of arms. I would not consider a unipivot arm at all. If you look at Lyra's web site you will notice that they specifically recommend against it. The Triplanar and SME are excellent arm but IMHO the 4 point 9 is better and less expensive.
Wemfan, as you noticed people like to wax poetic about turntables, tonearms and cartridges. Just look at the finest, most expensive examples of each. All of the finest, most expensive turntables are belt driven, not direct drive and not idler wheel. Look at the SAT tonearm. Big stiff tapered tube and rigid bearings. Check out the cantilever of the Clearaudio Goldfinger or the Air Tight PC-1 Supreme. Tiny diamond glued right to the end of a boron cantilever. No excess material. Now look for those traits in more reasonably priced equipment. 
For set up you will need a good protractor. I like the DB Systems. A pocket mirror, a digital tracking force gauge, a bubble level and tools usually supplied with the tonearm. If you get a SOTA you can tell them what arm you plan on using and they will drill the arm board for you.

Mike
@wemfan Consider a turntable that has been at the forefront of analog for decades....the Linn LP12. You will find that this platform is not that popular anymore, simply because many folks owned the table back in the day and never had it set up correctly or for some other long lost reason.( but go and listen and let your ears decide!) Nonetheless, the LP12 offers an excellent upgrade path, so you can get into the system ( and that is exactly what it is) with not too much $$ and then bring it up to whatever state you like, funds allowing. Buying a new LP12 comes with the mandatory ’set up’ from the dealer...and once that is done correctly, that set up will last you for years. I think you will not get a better sounding table than the old fruit box Linn. ( particularly at your price points).