Thiel Owners

Tom, 
Electrostatic headphones use a very, very thin and low mass membrane, positioned between two stators that are driven by a high voltage signal. (The stators operate push-pull to ensure the membrane reacts in a near simultaneous move to the coming signal.

In effect, the membrane reproduces the signal,  covering all frequencies fed to it, in a near-instantaneous time. 

What this means is what you hear (for example) is what the CD spinner/DAC feeds to the headphone does not have the differences in both the reaction time and the physical distances in space that define a normal speaker system.

What you hear is essentially what the recording engineer and the manufacturer put onto the CD. 

I've been using Stax headphones and amplifiers for years to "audition" every classical CD in my collection.  (now using the 009 and associated amplifier)

Yes, an electrostatic can sound thin in the bass - - but very clean and precise, and the higher frequencies can appear bright - - but the accuracy and resolution  cannot be beaten by dynamic cans, nor the  arrival of complex sounds from my 2.7s.  (and, no room effects! :-) :-) :-) )

I use my Thiel 2.7s for musical enjoyment. My Stax for finding out whatinthehell really is on that CD. 

George

prof,
I agree with your description of the 2.7s, although I'm using a Bryston 4B cubed with a bp17 cubed preamp. To me there is a clear difference in the 2.7s being driven by the 4BSST2 and the 4B cubed.

George

George - I've never actually heard electrostatic phones. I use Beyerdynamic 770s live and Sennheiser 800S in the studio-lab. I chose them for high quality neutrality and because many top-notch recording and mastering engineers use them.

Of interest is that the handling of stereo signal is different for in-room stereo and in-can binaural playback. Great recordings play well in both environments, but many ordinary recordings do not. It would be fascinating to learn whether that qualifier makes for good playback on Thiel / Vandy speakers. A recording that plays well on both stereo and cans must have its phase-time information intact and refrain from 3-D tricks of the trade. I bet those "proper" recordings would sound right on phase coherent speakers. Anybody know anything about this topic? I'm just surmising.

Tom

Hello fellow Thiel Owners. I have a question for the tinkerers of the group.

I bought a soldering iron and I have been practicing soldering and desoldering in preparation for possibly removing the damaged driver from my 3.7s. I have been talking with Rob who suggested I do one of two things, either desolder the terminal connection, or cut the wires as close to the terminal as possible. It seems to me that desoldering would be the preferred method but I am curious which method you would chose.

Also, I sent a few questions to Rob and was hoping I could pose the same questions to you guys. Here is what I sent Rob:

"I had a few more questions about removing this driver. I bought a soldering iron and I have been watching youtube videos and practicing soldering and desoldering. I think I am ready to give this a try. What is the best way to position the speaker to remove the driver(on its back, on its side, standing up)? Is a desoldering wick the way to go and if so what size would you recommend? Secondly, once I remove the screws and have the driver lose, how much slack is there in the wire connecting it, will I need a second set of hands to hold it while I desolder it? Beyond the soldering iron, what other tools would I need or would you recommend? Any practical tips for a beginner trying to desolder this terminal connection?"

Thanks for the help guys.

bighempin
From my experience ,
Set your soldering iron to 600 F , use a flat tip about the size of the wire ,
heat the wire and remove it , use solder wick to remove the solder 
from the connector , use solder with silver ( Cardas for me ) 
to reconnect .

Good Luck
Rob