Mounting Triplanar Tonearm to SME 20/2 Turntable


I just got a Triplanar U2 SE tonearm and am wondering how to mount it to my 20/2.  
The arm board I have is for an SME tonearm.  Until now I've had a SME IV mk vi mounted.  
After removing the SME arm I used the TP jig to see approximate location of the three holes.
Two of the holes land on the aluminum of the board and the third one is in the open hole in the center.  
It does not seem likely that I will be able to use the SME arm board for the TP arm.  Unless using only two holes to mount it will be enough???
I've also wondered about using 3M high bond tape to fix the arm to the board.  I use this tape in my profession and find it to be of excellent strength and longevity.  This doesn't mean that it's an acceptable application.  Just curious.    
In searching these forums and internet searches I have not been able to find a TP compatible arm board for use on an SME TT.  
Please share any info you might have.  Thanks!
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This will result in reduced performance
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"Will"? WILL??? 

Or, "I think it will". Or how about, "According to something I read somewhere it will." Or better yet, "I'm guessing with no real clue that it will."

Apprently someone didn't read the post above. Either that or doubts what was heard and written. Because if it really is so important for the arm to be coupled then why does it sound so much better when its not? And if its really so important for materials to match then why does it sound so much better when they don't?

Another thing I notice, conspicuous by its absence, is any mention of having actually made comparisons and learned from experience. Not one word along the lines of this is based on experience.  Instead all we have is unsupported unsubstantiated opinion.

Right? Right???
@atmasphere Thanks for your advice, Ralph.  I appreciate it because I know you own a Tri-Planar and it was your recommendation on these forums that I began researching them.
For the record, the plinth of the SME deck is not the same material as the arm board.  The arm board looks like machined aluminum.  The plinth is something else, I'm not sure the material.  
I'm considering making the existing arm board work, but haven't decided yet how.  Tri Mai says he can help me figure this out if I want to go this route.
I've also contacted SME about ordering a blank arm board from them.  I'm assuming the price for this will be more than I want to pay.  They charge $9 for one of their own hex wrenches (standard metric sizes), as an example of how over priced their accessories are.  One can only assume the arm board will be hundreds of dollars.  That said, if going this route is the best way I will spend the money.  
@imhififan Thanks for the link to the etsy listing.  That would likely work just fine and be very affordable.  
@millercarbon Thanks for the suggestions.  Much appreciated.  I like the idea to experiment with different materials.  
Three choices. #1 buy a new tonearm board.
#2 laminate 1/2" MDF to the current tonearm board to cover the hole. Spray paint it black and make sure you can lower the new arm enough to get it down to platter level. 
#3 Make a new tonearm board. Layer plastic and aluminum layers to get the right thickness using slow set epoxy. Use the old board as a temple to router the board to exactly the same shape. 
If you don't have the stuff to make your own just buy a new one. 
Right???
@millercarbon  I do talk with the voice of authority fairly often, which probably isn't the best way to present things. But I try to temper that with simply not responding if I have any doubts. FWIW dept.: I own two Triplanars and Triplanar is a 10 minute drive from here. We also make a turntable - the model 208. I've serviced turntables of all types as I put myself through engineering school repairing consumer electronics. So I was expressing the mechanical engineering issues that are common to all turntables.


This issue is not unlike the steering in a car. The car has to keep the wheels on the road at all times, and at the same time you have to be able to steer it. To do this, there can't be any play or flex in any of the steering or suspension components or else the handling can get creepy really fast. In a turntable, there can't be any play between the surface of the platter and the locus in which the cartridge is held. If there is, the stylus will be able to move in a way other than the grooves of the LP dictate (introducing chatter and/or coloration). To this end there can't be slop in the bearings nor flex in the plinth. The arm has to be rigidly coupled to the platter bearing - as rigidly and also as 'dead' as possible (the latter being why damping a plinth affects the sound).  Otherwise that would be much like a flexible part in the steering of the car- and would result in the wheels not doing what you want.