active crossover freqncy for Totem Mani2


For people who has experience with using an active crossover for the Totem Mani-2 Signature. What crossover frequencies would be ideal?

The website seems to indicate it's 4Khz and so would a 3.5Khz work better or 5Khz (like the option board for the Accuphase F-25)
metronet
If you can find out the crossover frequency of the Mani-2's you can come close, i'm not sure how good it would be. you would need to put your F25 behind your preamp, find the crossover frequency of the Mani-2's run your F-25 out to your amps, probably around 2K (you will need this frequency).
I looked at a frequency chart online for the Mani-2's, they appear to be using LR4 slopes. The Accuphase uses Gaussian, so right off the bat, you will have a passive network using one type crossover slope and an electronic using another. If you really want to do this, I recommend that you just get the drivers, make your own boxes without crossover units and use the Accuphase equipment. The Forest Drivers are available, I have impedence curves for them, you would need to put a compensation network inline with no filters, then you can use the Accuphase stuff, the results would be outstanding. Really what you are trying to do is possible, but impractical.
Duh, I looked at the frequency chart online??.. I went back, it is higher than I expected, the chart is small, somewhere between 3K & 3.2K.
Thanks for the information Timlub. Based on the reply I received from Totem it looks like it's impractical to go active.

Perhaps this is the reason why Totem recommends to bi-amp passively so the filtering is done internally with the mani-2 crossover.

Cheers,
given you have 2 identical amps - I suggest you go vertical biamp. Given your preamp doesn't have dual pre-outs - all you need is a y adapter - I have my home theater front mains set up this way - I run one interconnect from my preamp for each channel - and have an audioquest y adapter ( 1 F to 2 M connectors) that splits the signal and feeds each channel on the amp. Then simply run your speaker wires from each channel to the top and bottom binding posts on the Mani.

The only way you can use your F-25 is to remove the internal x-overs in the Manis and re-wiring the binding posts to connect directly to the drivers. You do not want to mess with that and I can't imagine you will like the result after you destroy the Mani's.
Do you presently own 2 amps? If not, have you thought about bi wiring? Cables do matter and you could slightly change the character of the top or bottom end independently that way.