chakster, anone who knows:
ignoring Stylus,
Is the X-1II and X-1IIE cartridge internal construction the same?
Put a new Shibata in X-1IIE body essentially same as X-1II?
thanks, Elliott
Cartridge, Compliance, try what in my JVC UA-7082 Arm?
Elliot, they are not the same, it’s different series. The Z-1 is cheaper (actually very cheap nowadays), the stylus is completely different and you can not swap the styli between entry level Z-1 and top of the line X-1 & X1II series. The Z-1 comes with conical, elliptical or shibata. If you have Shibata - this is the best original stylus for Z-1. While the Z1 is a $100-200 cartridge today, the higher model like X-1II in NOS condition goes way over $1k. Look at Victor catalog HERE, the price for X-1IIe is twice as much compared to Z-1e. So when you’re using Z-1 today you can get is Jico SAS (Super Analog Stylus), the one that made for Shure cartridges as far as i know, it is compatible with Victor Z-1 and our member Halcro posted about it before in MM thread, you can search. When you’re using X-1, X-1II and X-1IIe you can ONLY use original Victor styli and they are the best, as i told you before i have a NOS DT-x1IIe stylus in the box and a cartridge too. Here is the DT-x1IIe stylus construction with tension wire. X-1 has Shibata on Beryllium cantilever, the cartridge body is different than Z-1, X-1II and X-1IIe. X-1II also has Shibata on Beryllium cantilever. X-1IIe comes with Titatium Pipe cantilever and Nude Elliptical tip, this model is cheaper than X-1II, but also very nice and superior to Z-1 series. I always use original styli on my rare vintage cartridges, i want to make sure i am listening what was designed by the manufacturer, not by a third-party freaks. All images above taken by myself, i have tried all the best Victor MM cartridges, many different samples. |
chackster, You missed the fact that I never mentioned the Z series. I plan on moving to something better for the 7082 arm. (better than if I put a new Shibata in a Z-1S body). First considering JVC X-1II. Thinking a new Shibata stylus with old X body rather than finding one with an old original stylus. I am asking about putting a new Shibata in an X-1IIe body. Will that be equivalent to a new Shibata in a X-1II body? IOW, what, if any, difference in the X-1II or X-1IIE cartridge internals. |
I am asking about putting a new Shibata in an X-1IIe body. Will that be equivalent to a new Shibata in a X-1II body? I have no ideal what do you mean and the logic behind this idea. If you like to buy a broken cartridges to make a Frankenstein then it’s up to you. Re-tipped cartridge will never be even close to the original Victor Shibata/Beryllium. The X-1IIe does not have a Beryllium cantilever like the X-1II, when you will put new tip on different cantilever the sound will be different. Actually the whole re-tipping process of MM cartridges is such a BS. No one on this planet can offer Beryllium cantilever anymore, none of those re-tippers, they can't offer even titanium pipe. The price for a NOS original boxed DT-x1IIe with ultra light and rigid Titanium Pipe cantilever and pressure fitter Nude Elliptical tip is no more than $400 (for an original). What else you can get for that amount and where ? Normally this is what re-tippers charge just for the stylus tip (make no sense), but they can only glue the new tip to the existing cantilever or they can offer completely different cantilever, but they can’t do that on MM cartridge properly. Those victor have a tension wire inside the stylus assembly. Rebuild/Retip is just a waste of money for inferior technology. Look at the images of my Victor cartridges on macro lens and check how the stylus tip fixed to the Titanium or Beryllium cantilevers. I've seen some third-party styli for X-1IIe with strange aluminum cantilevers, but they are junk compared to the original Victor styli. IOW, what, if any, difference in the X-1II or X-1IIE cartridge internals. You can download the manuals and compare the specs. P.S. Best Victor cartridges in MINT condition with original styli cost money, they are extremely rare and very hard to find in perfect condition. Once you will be able to check the original you will understand why they are expensive. |