Tonearm ...... Acos Lustre GST-801 ..... Yea/Nay

Arrived, Gorgeous, now I need to find a deck to put it on,

the TT81 with large plinth I bought arrived severely damaged yesterday.

Would you like to try this ? 
Technics SP-20, absolutely beautiful, look at this. 
Just like SP10mkII, but in black, simplified version from 1976 with built-in power supply. 

the TT81 with large plinth I bought arrived severely damaged yesterday.

what a pity! great misfortune !!!

is it possible to restore?

I received and installed the 801 tonearm. All is terrific,

EXCEPT, the tonearm lifter is not working.

Nothing moves up when raising the lever. I know how to loosen the set screw to raise/lower the cylinder, but center post does not move.

Any ideas? 

thanks, Elliott 

Happily, I solved it. I really like this Acos Lustre GST-801 lift.

A suggestion on AudioKarma mentioned looking underneath, verifying a set screw was snug. That may be the problem for other's.

I found my problem, and suspect/hope it could be a common problem for others, as it is easily fixed.

1. Lever flexes a long thin strip of metal (visible when upside down). The end of the metal activates the rise/lower action when flexed by the lever.

2. The lift raises/lowers 'by itself' after you 'start' it, by moving the lever up or down. (IOW, once started, the action is not controlled by the lever, it's controlled by fluid moving). It starts up and continues to rise like a cake.

3. There is a small gap at the forward end of the metal strip below the cylinder. There is a small projecting rod on the bottom of the cylinder. The cylinder has to be rotated so that the pin moves out of sight, above the end of the flexible metal strip.

4. My cylinder had been rotated, the rod was in the gap, no metal strip below it, so, when the metal strip flexed, it did not contact the pin. I simply rotated the cylinder so that the pin moved out of sight, now above the metal strip. Fixed, but not height adjusted.

5. The top curved rail rotates, for proper positioning for the full sweep of the tonearm. The curved rail has it's own set screw. Loosen set screw, position (rotate) the curved rail for full arm sweep, tighten.

6. I think mine, and probably others, people loosen the cylinder set screw and rotate the cylinder to position the attached curved rail. Inadvertently moving the cylinder's lower pin to the gap where there is no contact with the flexible metal strip....................
...................................

My procedure:
First, get arm height, arm balance, general VTA angle set. Adjusting the height/clearance of the lift's top curved rail when down (below the tonearm when playing) is relative to the tonearm's downward angle.

1. loosen and lightly snug two set screws (cylinder and top curved rail) (so no real force needed when making final adjustment, avoiding one part moving the other).

2. loosen cylinder's set screw and rotate cylinder (view from bottom) so the pin is out of sight above the metal strip. slight tighten.
  
**** Note: never rotate the cylinder later when adjusting it's height, or positioning the top curved rail ****

3. loosen cylinder's set screw, make general height adjustment, slight tighten. To get the top curved rail close to the bottom of the tonearm prior to next step.

4. loosen top curved rail's set screw, rotate to position it for the full sweep of the tonearm, tighten. it's done.

5. final height of cylinder will need to be coordinated with arm height. adjust bit by bit, avoiding rotating it, to keep it's lower pin above the flexible metal strip.

Elliott