Sell your $$$ cables and conditioners... affordable LITHIUM is here!


I wanted to give you a frame of reference as to where I'm coming from and most importantly a first impression after 24hrs!
I've been an addict since my first system of KEF Concord speakers, Crimson Electric amps and an Ariston turntable back in college in '81. Since then I've been down the entire Linn system with Active Kabers, Full Meridian active system with DSP5200's as well as some burly NZ Perraux mono blocks with Sonus Faber when I lived in NZ. Since moving to the US in 2001 I've been through years of altercations between solid state camps from Bel Canto, Levinson stereo 336 to mono 436's, 532H and Mac 452 to speakers from B&W 802N and D2 to Wilson Sophia 2's, Sonus Faber Amati Homage and Revel Studio 2's. I've tried conditioners from Transparent, AQ Niagra, Isotek and others and every time come back to a decent cable straight from the wall.
Three years ago I took the plunge and went down the Devialet rabbit hole, streaming direct from a MacBook Air with ROON my Devialet D200 (soon to become a D400) drives my Focal Utopia Diablos via Analysis Plus Solo Crystal 8 speaker cables (and that's another whole can of worms with enormous cable differences), a JL Audio Fathom F110 (also about to be doubled up) rounds it out. My livening room is about 22x25 with 10ft ceilings and partially treated as best I can accommodate. 
Suffice to say, I've been around the block with hifi, listened to way more than my fair share at dealers and friends with diverse systems and currently run one of the most reveling systems I've ever heard. Sure, there's not that thick syrupy warmth the tube guys will clammer for, but then I'm hearing so much further into not just tonality but intent within the playing. 

If you read the review in Enjoy the Music from Tom Lyle, you'd see he equates the GZ Yeti to the $30k Stromtank. His review was the $400 Yeti 400. The Yeti 1000 was $1099, the 3kW Yeti 3000 is $2999 and will power almost anything. So, like Tom I took the plunge and bought a Yeti 1000 figuring it'd have plenty of 'headroom' for my meagre 600w consumption. (Though I have since plugged my JL Audio Fathom in too)

After playing the "FedEx f'ed up" again game, I finally went to their depot and picked up my new toy myself. After a handful of songs to establish a baseline for the evening, I simply plugged the Yeti 1000 in, reconnected the Devialet and sat back... My girlfriend was first to break the silence and then immediately regretted it as I couldn't help myself interrupting her for the next half hour of gushing over what a profound difference it was making.
H-U-G-E. Truly component level and an absolute game changer. 

I was immediately texting my good friend with his PS Audio Directstream, Gryphon Diablo, Audio Physic Avantera III all powered by the latest Synergistic Research Powercell 12SE and Gallileo power cord with AQ Hurricane to each component - SELL- SELL- SELL it all, get a Goal Zero! 

We stayed up until 2am listening, flipped it back for a handful of now unlistenable tracks and then back again to Yeti 1000 happiness. In over six hours of powering my Devialet and Fathom at 90+db levels it'd dropped to a laughable 98%. I'm guessing that means it'd run off the grid for 300hrs or more? That's probably a several months of listening for most people. Who even cares, it simply sounds spectacular and the single biggest improvement I've ever heard from anything less than a major amp or speaker upgrade. 

I know my system is fairly frugal and green running, my buddy Matts, Gryphon would probably need the 3000W Yeti as his amp pulls 1900W at full song and his full stack of components albeit front end certainly add a few hundred more.   He's headed down to me in a couple of week with a stack of exotic power cables and conditioners  to try and I can't wait to share my results - I'm guessing he'll want to steal it away for his own demo right after. I would imagine he'd even get away with the Yeti 1000, so long as he doesn't run it too hard?
leeagc
Obviously, the 120VAC output on the Yeti has no ground.

What do you do about the ground from the audio component ??
Just ignore it ??  Is this safe ?

DL
An update a year in:
My system is on standby 24/7 and in use maybe three hours a day.  I've made a few cables changes and added an Intel NUC driving ROON instead of my MacBook Air - all worthwhile and noticeable changes.  A couple of weeks ago the system was dead when I came home from a business trip of a few days.  Turns out the Yeti wall wart that keep sit topped up had expired.  Yeti immediately shipped a warranty replacement, but I had a week without it, my system being powered directly from the wall again.. OMG - horrified and almost unlistenable.  It sounded like junk, thin, flat and lifeless.  Everything had changed massively for the worse.  New power supply restored, there's happiness in the household.
The Yeti is a gamechanger.  
"Turns out the Yeti wall wart that keep sit topped up had expired. Yeti immediately shipped a warranty replacement, but I had a week without it, my system being powered directly from the wall again.. OMG - horrified and almost unlistenable. It sounded like junk, thin, flat and lifeless. Everything had changed massively for the worse."

So you're seemingly nice setup, WITHOUT the Yeti is now a Best Buy level system? 

Audiophiles..oh brother.
The Goal Zero type of products are a battery and a pure sign wave inverter in a box. You can buy all kinds of pure sign wave inverters of similar distortion and buy batteries and chargers separate, as you need. All inverters will sound different from each other as they all have parts and construction that are different (every single thing you do makes a sonic difference).

I have been using a Yeti 400 on my highly modded Oppo 205 for many months....really sounds great. I have removed the cover, bottom and sides and removed the heat sensor from underneath the battery. Now, the fan never turns on. The fact that it is mostly open allows much more heat to be removed naturally. I did not remove any other heat sensors...just the one that sits underneath the battery. I tried plugging my EVS 1200 dual mono class D amp into the Yeti but the Yeti shut off as it does not have the surge capability to handle the onrush current of the amp. I will be buying a 1500 watt (3000 watt surge) pure sign wave inverter ($3-4 hundred dollars) later to run the amp. I only have those two components and when I get the inverter for the amp then I will be completely off the grid.

Yes, the power cord from the inverter to your component is still important. BTW, I also hardwired my power cord going to the Oppo inside the Yeti and I installed a PPT Stopit into one of the AC outlets. Those PPT stop its are crazy good....too bad they are out of business (at least for now). I bet the parallel conditioners from ADD-powr and Akiko would help on the output of the inverter, as well. Happy tweaking!
I have a question?

No problems with explosions? It's my understanding you don't want to have a problem with a lithium base battery of ANY kind. Smart charger or not.  I've personally seen quite a few lead acid batteries blow the tops out. I was surprised the damage they can cause, blew 2x4s in half in a dedicated charging room.  Didn't have enough ventilation, off gassing was ignited everytime, hooking a battery charger to banks of batteries.  I saw the same person do it 3 times in a pretty short period. He was sent to the principals office. LOL I recall there was a few issues with lithium batteries. So are they inside the domicile, or outside? Just wondering. I'm pretty picky with my old ears, but I really don't want to BLOW them off either. lol Cool idea though!!!!

Regards