Higher End DACs


I am looking for a DAC (potentially streamer&DAC) to be paired in a mcintosh system (c1100/611). Its my first foray into digital streaming and I have no need for a CD player.

I see a lot of love for Esoteric, however, most seems to be around their transports? Are they not as renowned for pure digital streaming and/or standalone DACs? I see DCS (for instance) often referenced for standalone DACs - how does Esoteric compare?
ufguy73
OP has Mc amp and preamp. Given that, why would he/she even think about pairing it with a warm sounding dac?? I get it that also BW 800s, but I’d still think would want to swing for neutral or slightly analytical.

dcs or msb or esoteric sounds like a better synergistic compatible if OP intends to stick with Mc that he/she already has. Just my opinion based on reputations. I’ll be first to admit I have not heard (in my system) any of these $20k+ digital wonders being discussed.
This thread is really good btw. Nice job OP kicking it off and responding to all the suggestions and refining your search as more info presented. Can’t wait for the auditions and demos and head2heads if they happen.

Cables should not be the answer to mismatched components at this point in game (bc still free to purchase nicely compatible digital piece to go with what he/she already has). OP better off getting best synergistic match with the digital purchase with his existing kit and then using cables to tweak that last 1-2%.

Lack of MQA support on T+A would be dealbreaker for me. 
“I would be curious what ’level’ of DAC would you say is commensurate with my general Mcintosh system of c1100/611 and B&W 800 d3 speakers?

is the MSB line/T+A 3100 overkill? is it the next step up that would be lost in my current system, above?”

@ufguy73,

You probably didn’t expect seeking advise on DAC/Streamer would turn out to be quite a rigamarole. It’s an important decision given rest of your system and first foray into digital streaming. Speaking about your system, it’s a great ensemble of gear but not without its limitations. Don’t get me wrong when I say that, for many it’s still a dream system to own all out McIntosh /B&W gear. I have gone through few iterations of B&W, Classe and McIntosh in recent years. It’s a classic pairing....B&W and McIntosh. I blame the dealers who weren’t adventurous enough to showcase B&W’s with anything else but Classe (under B&W group) and McIntosh. And for last couple of years, consumers minds are being re-tuned by mega-dealers to show how well McIntosh / ARC gear pairs with Sonus Faber speakers. Sorry for the rant but you will see ‘why’ in next couple of paragraphs.

If you plan to keep McIntosh C1100/611, I would say listen to Mytek Manhattan II with optional network card or DCS Bartok in your system. You will be more than pleased what these one box components offers in terms of performance and simplicity.

I think someone mentioned Bricasti M21, that would be a good choice too.

To answer your query honestly, both MSB and T+A 3100 would be a overkill with MC611 in your system. It is the weakest link in your system. I have had C1100/MC601 with B&W 800D2 and as much I loved and enjoyed C1100, the MC601 turned out to be nothing more than pretty face and very expensive paper weights. You may find this hard to believe, but your B&W 800’s are best driven by Class D amps with at least 500W/8ohms specs.

Should you choose to bring T+A SDV 3100 HV into your system, that should eliminate the need for C1100. You may not be ready to part ways with C1100 yet but keeping it with SDV3100 would be a waste of money.

As far as amps goes, if Class D doesn’t float your boat; the newer Classe Delta amps will wake up your B&W like no other.

https://www.classeaudio.com

Tough road ahead, but you will figure out which way to go only by listening to all the aforementioned recommendations in your system.

Good luck!
I totally agree with @lalitk here. On the McIntosh that is. I was just very hesitant of bringing this up, for fear of sounding snobby. 

I have the B&W 803 D3 speakers by the way
Kren0006 is spot on. If you have what we used to call a ‘colored’ front end you will end up trying to return to neutral at some point which becomes a slippery slope. Do you then buy a brighter than neutral amp or cables? The very best components should absolutely be neutral and rich in detail. ‘warm’ generally means rolled off or soft etc. Let the source material dictate the neutrality. What to do with a ‘warm’ recording played back on a ‘warm’ system? boring, which is the last thing you want. IMO only
I have to agree with lalitk. I didn’t want to bring up the MAC thing either but it looms large in this decision.