Cary Audio CAD-280SA V12R

If you are looking to keep a softer more veiled over sound the Audio1 caps are okay, not bad caps, just not great ones. If you want a little more texture, clarity, and musicality, many other caps sound better.  Did not realize the true benefit of front' end EL84 or 12BZ7/6922 vintage tube changes until after swapping out the little silverfish Audio1s.  Heard that amp with four different sets of caps between myself and three friends who owned V12i and V12Rs, all much prefer higher quality coupling caps in that amp. Be safe, it can hurt if you touch the wrong stuff in there!  

bradluke0155 posts04-01-2020 10:22amPlease do yourself a favor , don't start screwing around inside the amp . Play with the 4 or 8 ohm taps for the speakers , play with the bias , roll the tubes , use 2 , 4 or 6 per channel and try different power cords . But please don't put silver wire in there , if you must mess around use copper and make sure the wire you put in is both facing the same way . Wire in different directions sound different . Don't make me come over there with a baseball bat …..lol .
  

Hee Hee, I won't tear it up..I'm just havin' a ball though. I got it sounding pretty darn good. Yea the Ruby out. I had 4 Volvo valves from Marantz # 9 I had way back, NOS never used.. I couldn't believe the change there.
BIG difference. I went to Teleies 12ax7, from all the 12BZ7s, man that is a raw tube for sure, lot of gain but tough on the ears.. If the guy was happy with that sound, he's like most folks I run into, too much bass in there life...protect those ears.... really.. Nice guy though..
I have a great set of 6550 too. Tung Sols, have to find um..great mids those valves, rock and roll delight..

Facing the same way, you crack me up.. If I do anything I'll probably do my treatment to the wire and give it a direction same as it comes off the spool...3 days in the freezer and 4-5 days on a cooker..This is pretty easy to work on.. No kidding not my first amp tinker fest..I've done up a few through the years..

Copper, why copper? I've used pure silver not clad, had some very good results from stock copper, to larger wire, from the speaker terminals back to the first solder joint. Just did up a pair of NC500.. Quit a sonic nugget..I did use clad there, add a little sparkle..

I'm telling you, the wire is maybe a # 20.. look, it's
spooky. Looks like the inside of a new Mcintosh.

Thanks though.. got any pointer I'm ALL ears Caps YOU prefer?


 Did not realize the true benefit of front' end EL84 or 12BZ7/6922 vintage tube changes until after swapping out the little silverfish Audio1s.

So what's the cat's meow? I'd love give it a go. I'll be listening for 2-3 weeks then look into it.  Give the cable a chance to settle and everything..

So what's the name brand you used?

Honestly though.. It does sound pretty good.. The planars are just loving them, tons of power. Even on 4 valve. pretty hefty..No bass duty, just monitor section...

I want to thank everyone, for helping, lot of fun...listen to music in the middle of the day...retirement is just wonderful..

Regards..

Why not silver wire ?   If do a bit of research it will tell you that high frequencies travel at a slightly different speed through silver wire than copper . That is why silver wire is commonly thought to have more highs . There is not more highs , it is just slightly smeared and that makes it sound different.  

Thanks, yea I knew there is a timing issue. Ones faster so to speak.
I've used, copper, copper/silver clad, silver, and alu/copper clad.  I've brightened a few and toned down a few too. I've used wire and speaker terminals (copper, copper/nickel, silver) to tune a few.

Analog Question?

Why is silver over copper, as apposed to pure silver or copper or anything else I can find, BRIGHT.. Someone said it was the dielectric cover.. Yet, I've ran bare wire no insulation, and the rule still applies.
alu is the dullest. (mechanic terms) then copper, then silver then copper/silver clad. I made up a silver/copper weave, sounds better than the Mcintosh he brought. The hulk cable..

I can take a #16 of copper a #16 of silver, mechanically join the two and no BRIGHTness. But a fullness, everything is fattin' up, thicker more of it... Clad, NO.. Just bright..  Just wondering.. Just noticed...

I did have Mundorf .22uf 1000v Supreme Silver gold oils. for the audio 1 cap swap, I also had .22uf 1400v Supreme aluminum caps.

I really like what I'm hearing.. Really. I found a stash of 12ax7s Volvo, Telefunken, RCA, and Tung Sol. EVERY pair was better than the stock
12BZ7s, man that is a real raw tube..

Hee hee need super duper caps to make the crap tubes to sound OK.
BUY good Valves..I have some Russian and Chinese tubes 12AX7 all better than that 12BZ7.. Just not the gain.. 12az7 will do it has the gain and a lot better valve, Not a TV tube.. LOL

What brand of caps.. Cardas Silvers, TRT teflons. I have K75, K45, K42 and K40 xxxx russian PIO / hybrid..and the Mundorfs.

thanks everyone, just havin' a good ol time..

I really cant tell you anything about caps and changing the internal components . I can tell you that six nines copper will be musical and engaging if its solid core . If its stranded , for crying out loud , don't get me going . Find your self some really nice Telefunken smooth plates or some Bugle Boys and have some good fun . BTW ….don't forget to screw around with the power cord and don't mess up that amp or I will report you to someone  ( not sure who but don't try me ….lol )