Cartridge alignment with non slotted headshell?


With headshells that don’t allow for alignment, how is this a good choice? Some examples, Yamamoto HS-6, Ortofon lh10000, and many vintage ones I’ve seen. Without a slotted headshell I don’t see a way for rotating the cartridge for zenith adjustment. Also, it will be very difficult to get the the overhang 100%. This also goes for SPU’s in SPU headshells. One reason I think my SPU Royal N is a better choice than in SPU headshell. Am I missing something or are the people using these not caring about proper alignment?
sdrsdrsdr
You don’t have to (and you can’t) twist headshell-integrated cartridges like SPU and FR7f type, they are fixed with correct overhang and if you will check them with Dr.Feickert protractor they’re spot on (with one of 3 possible methods) if your PS distance is correct.

If you have conventional cartridge screwed to the headshell without slots but with treated holes then it’s nice to have overhang adjustment on the headshell (like AT Technihard, Stax and others). 

Even if there are no lots there are at least 2-3 pairs of fixed treated holes for mounting screws and this is how you can adjust overhang altering position of the cartridge, but you can;t twist it. This is indeed not ideal if your cantilever is off-centered.

Headshell with slots, azimuth and overhand adjustment will give you everything, but it is not rigid as the shell without those options.







@chakster 

“Even if there are no lots there are at least 2-3 pairs of fixed treated holes for mounting screws and this is how you can adjust overhang altering position of the cartridge, but you can;t twist it. This is indeed not ideal if your cantilever is off-centered. ‘

These spaced out holes are not accurate enough for perfect overhang. And yes the SPU in headshell has no adjustments. Nothing comes 100 % perfect. This is why I felt the N is the better version. Also I mentioned the ortofon lh10000, that has only one pair of headshell holes. I’m wondering how people are using these optimally. It is Ortofon’s  top headshell.

Over the last couple of years I’ve been using multiple cartridges and changing them regularly, and haven’t been spending the time setting up that I used to. When I was  a one cartridge person, I would spend many hours setting up to perfection. And I thought most people agreed that the cartridge’s cantilever and tip isn’t 100% from the factory and that zenith and azimuth should  be adjusted to achieve  perfection.

Steve.
Well, when you're using SPU cartridges all you have to check is Pivot to Spindle on your tonearm. You don't have to adjust SPU type of cartridges, you have to adjust tonearm PS distance only. For example: on FR tonearms SPU will be spot on with Stevenson alignment, with modern tonearm it will be spot on with Baerwald alignment, depends on tonearm design (geometry). 

For conventional cartridge all you have to do is to buy nice headshell with slots (if other type of shell without slot is not accurate with your cartridge/tonearm). Some sheadshell without lots designed for specific tonearm from the same brand.  


I would definitely get one of their slotted headshells, carbon, various woods, etc, they are all over eBay.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=yamamoto+headshell&_sacat=0&_sop=12

or other brand if it doesn't matter.

Fixed arm, I went for a slot with a sliding/pivoting metal plate, allen head locking screw, very easy. Arm height via micrometer (not while playing, needs to be adjusted, locked, checked. Arm rotates/locks for azimuth, pain to get right, but you get it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/tonearm-tonarm-12-long-NewArtVinyl-BLACK-BIRD12-5-CARBON/233512433389?hash=item365e6cf6ed:g:CUMAAOSw86ZeXTqK

There are VTA on the fly, would be nice, my Acos Lustre 801 VTA on the fly is so easy, but not this length, or this price.