@georgehifi --
Class-D, you mean in bridged config. or stand-alone? My experience with Class-D is far from exhaustive, but what I’ve heard is noticeably different compared to a good Class-A design or even a ditto Class-A/B iteration. My as-is unwavering preference at least what concerns the central to upper mids on up is for this range to be handled by a Class-A design, but I find it less obvious from ~1kHz and down. Certainly I wouldn’t choose Class-A here for my active set-up, for a variety of reasons.
@avanti1960 --
Oh, absolutely. It’s a potentially complicated process and steep learning curve, and I wouldn’t as much recommend this approach (i.e.: converting a passively filtered pair of quality speakers into actives) as a design that’s born sans passive cross-over to being with. This mostly boils down to DIY and the pro sector, with the latter having sometimes preset filter-options to implement. Either outset could be a challenge, but once you get a handle on the different filter aspects I’d wager the freedom of choice, on-the-fly filter settings changes and differentiated approach to amp topology (that’s possibly) as it applies to each driver - added to the bliss, as I see it, of avoiding a passive cross-over altogether - it becomes addictive and a rather obvious bye-bye to passive.
Some redundant info hereNot in the least, still fact with Class-D’s today.
Class-D, you mean in bridged config. or stand-alone? My experience with Class-D is far from exhaustive, but what I’ve heard is noticeably different compared to a good Class-A design or even a ditto Class-A/B iteration. My as-is unwavering preference at least what concerns the central to upper mids on up is for this range to be handled by a Class-A design, but I find it less obvious from ~1kHz and down. Certainly I wouldn’t choose Class-A here for my active set-up, for a variety of reasons.
@avanti1960 --
tread lightly when bypassing the crossovers of any quality loudspeaker.
they usually do a lot more than just filtering out low or high frequencies. [...]
Oh, absolutely. It’s a potentially complicated process and steep learning curve, and I wouldn’t as much recommend this approach (i.e.: converting a passively filtered pair of quality speakers into actives) as a design that’s born sans passive cross-over to being with. This mostly boils down to DIY and the pro sector, with the latter having sometimes preset filter-options to implement. Either outset could be a challenge, but once you get a handle on the different filter aspects I’d wager the freedom of choice, on-the-fly filter settings changes and differentiated approach to amp topology (that’s possibly) as it applies to each driver - added to the bliss, as I see it, of avoiding a passive cross-over altogether - it becomes addictive and a rather obvious bye-bye to passive.