Subwoofer. Great one song. Not so great the next song.


I'm not a subwoofer guy. Played around with one in my primary system (Aerial Acoustics 7Bs, Proceed 250w amp, AR LS-16 tube preamp). Big B&W powered, not sure which. Didn't think it added anything. Ditched it.


Recently got a pair of Aerial Acoustic 6Ts for my secondary system. They have no place to be but right up against the wall. Maybe a foot out. Can't decide if they sound better with a sock in the rear facing bass port or not. Its a wash. Overall they sound pretty dang good though.


But, I played around with a JL Audio e110 sub. Pretty nice unit. Put the socks back in the bass ports.

On some songs the combo with the sub just sounds stellar. On others it sounds boomy and thumpy. My audiophile hang up is taught, clear, concise bass. I do not like boomy and thumpy at all. I can get up and turn the output on the sub down a little and it sounds okay again.

But I don't want to do that every time a different song comes on.

Now, on this sub you can change crossover frequencies, phase and also a polarity switch. I don't know _anything_ about that stuff. I've got it set on the more or less default settings in the manual. The only thing I've messed with is the polarity switch and for reasons I don't understand it sounds better on 180 than 0. I have not messed with the crossover frequency and phase dials.

Is there any chance that changing any of those settings would allow me to reach a sweet spot where I don't have to change settings on the sub frequently? I may or may not keep this sub. If I can't find that sweet spot I'll let it go as alone the 6Ts don't sound bad by any measure.

Thanks,
George


n80
I have a similar setup.
You have to get the sub blended properly with the mains and all those adjustments are your tools. First level but then also rolloff frequency and then phase.
The trick with one sub is get that all right at your listening position because bass levels will vary within the room no matter how you adjust a single sub.
Try getting it right at the sub location first where you can make fine adjustments fast and easy as needed and get familiar with how the controls affect the sound.
Then take what you’ve learned and listen from you main listening position and make the adjustments for that until right.
Leaving ports open will extend the low frequencies of the mains and allow the sub to come in at a somewhat lower frequency that is less directional and less likely to call attention to a single subs location in the room.
Also helps to know at what frequencies your mains and sub roll off to help determine the rolloff frequency range to shoot for when adjusting that on the sub.
In general, the larger and more extended the mains, the larger and more extended the sub will need to be to fill in the low end missing otherwise rather than just boosting existing bass levels which is generally not what you want.

Also remember that bass levels and sound will vary largely from recording to recording.   Use a good quality track or two or three with lots of good extended bass as your reference tracks and adjust for those so that bass is good but not overwhelming.   Then see how that works but do not expect great bass from all or even most recordings else you will be tuning forever. 
I see that you read the article Erik wrote and posted on his website. In it he devotes a fair amount of virtual ink to discrediting the distributed multi-sub concept by labelling its advocates "cultish". If you are open to hearing an opposing viewpoint on the merits of a distributed multisub system, let me know.


The only negative thing I have to say about the concept and technology is the added complexity of the idea. Hawk it all you want to, I won’t interject.  It is the behavior I have been subjected to.  Be nice and I'll be nice.  Simple enough concept for most.

Leaving ports open will extend the low frequencies of the mains and allow the sub to come in at a somewhat lower frequency that is less directional and less likely to call attention to a single subs location in the room.


True but if your mains are 2-way, they will have more IM distortion in the midrange, and will have much more excursion below resonance, leading to limited dynamic range. Well integrated, an 80 Hz cut off is just fine. Maybe even 100 Hz.


Honestly though, in my mind integration is such a difficult task for most that whichever way you find easiest to integrate well s probably the right one and then leave it alone. :)

Best,

E

Eric that is true and always an option but an external crossover would be needed to limit the low end on the mains with most subs. Not sure about this one in particular.
That adds cost and complexity as well. Maybe worth it to offload more to sub and limit mains if needed to go louder and clearer later. A trade off depending on users appetite. and needs.
Yes bass swarm adds more complexity as well but that is what you need if balanced bass throughout the room is a concern in most cases.   Personally I will pass on that but some may have a need and choose to conquer. 


kr4
3,477 posts
07-24-2020

here is no crossover in the e110, so there's really no point to doing this.
Turn the FEQ, all the way down, Counter Clock Wise.
What's an FEQ?

My suggestions are to consider a preamp with bass management, an external crossover and/or an external DSP for equalizing the sub in your room.

<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

There is a Crossover...

According to the picture I saw, and the spec sheet I read.
The FREQ, OX, FEQ, all refer to the crossover point, 25-125, I believe

There is a master gain control, a 0-180 phase switch, a 0-220 variable
and a selectable XO from 25-125 or so..

I suggest starting LOW, all the way to the left, CCW, at 25 and slowly turn it up, until it starts getting boomy, then back it off a bit. It's going to be around 30-35 or so. Makes sure EVERYTHING is at 0 on the tone control, if you have it on the pre, OR anywhere else for that matter EQs everything.. All ZERO (0).

BECAUSE you can't move the sub, there is going to be a bit of a timing issue. Simple too.

In the seated position, once the XO is close (FREQ)  try adding a little phase correction at a time, maybe 20 at a time until you hear the clearest, LOUDEST (defined) bass notes. When the bass goes away, it's to far out of phase, turn it bac a bit.. When it's in time (as close as you can get it)  you'll be able to hear ALL the notes, not just the one note bass, or cancellation, due to combing.

Again SEATED, no where else matters, because room treatment, la-te-da... ok...Seated only!

Most folks add a sub, not understanding, to much is just BAD. less is always better in the 20-80 hz range, BUT you got to have it, for the best sound...30hz to 20Khz.

Enjoy..

Regards