Replacing driver screws with brass screws

FINGER TIGHT? Sorry I'm rolling on the floor. That is a "I don't know how to tighten things" answer. I'm actually rolling on the floor... Me the dog and the rabbit. This is a builder (not engineer) answer to a poorly designed baffle, and driver securement system..

Ok this is how I see it happening. A driver manufacture measuring their projected driver response, looked good so they had a few thousand produces in CHINA. Then  found "MOUNTING" the driver changed the "Q" res to baffle. WHY? Forgot to figure in mounting the thing...AND
a soft baffle (my guess).

If anyone purchased a driver that couldn't withstand TORQUE, or designed one that way, it is FLAWED, simple.. If proper torque caused a driver problem, usually the baffle face is not flat. 
I have seen this EXACT same thing with neo planar (UPGRADE) added securements and properly torqued. VMPS neo 8 upgrade...To stop ribbon/planar distortion and usually material failure.

It sounds like they over torqued the basket, then under torqued, the basket.  Then settled for what they could keep the tightest the longest. But not tight, FOREVER... To keep the tonality the same day in and day out.... Can't keep torquing them up...OK

You have to torque and tighten EVERYTHING.... No exception. 

A moving torque method is good for a diesel engine (head to block).
But not where you want ZERO WEAR, You want ZERO wear in the driver pocket and the back face of the driver flange..
Finger tight.. Is that funny bunny, I'm talking to my rabbit (Junior)?
The Goat, I'm still pissed at because of the hat he ate...

Time to definitely feed the chickens, squint, squint. Palm to the head slap! Why do I even try to teach these chickens how to fix their own hen house.. silly me... Good to be the Rooster I guess.. :-)

BTW, now you see why a speaker sound engineer, is kinda low on the totem pole of engineers. It takes a mechanical engineer to fix the problem working with a GOOD sound engineer...to correct ALL issues with the box and drivers...or

maybe an OL wore out mechanic...OOPS, did I say that...

Regards

Before we start criticizing and poking fun at him perhaps we should ask cd318 to explain exactly what he meant by finger tight. I am a Harbeth owner and I don't see how I could do that with the screws securing my drivers. I can understand not using a impact driver, I just don't understand hand tightening this type of screw. Cd318 might have a perfectly logical explanation that just wasn't obvious to us.

brass  screws  is not audiophile approved , you have to send screws
to stereophile to make acoustic measurement  and we have to see difference .  also is very important the  screws  size . you have to drill bigger holes and use big screws. Fantastic improvement

Hello,
One of the reasons manufacturers hate to use brass screws Is they are hard to keep perfect and scratch free. They have to be hand tightened which makes it difficult to torque with a specific amount of weight. Even on an expensive speakers it is something that could cause problems. Also you probably need a revealing system to hear the difference. Last is it costs more. Maybe not a lot but it adds up. I will bet you it might only cost about $20 to try it. What’s the harm. We all spend thousands of dollars on our hobby what is $20 more. Also, sometimes people ask how did the electronic measurements look or differ. Do you know how many speaker manufacturers have a perfect measurement but the prototype speaker sounds bad. A lot! I think we should try it and post our results on this thread. Maybe we can get the screws from Ace Hardware. They carry a ton of specialized harware. If they don’t work return them. Cover the screw driver head with tape so you don’t mar them. If they do work. Good for us!

“it improved the detail in ambient trails"
I usually just smoke another joint for the best ambient trails. Yea, I find it to be one of the best tweaks.