Have a Victor UA-7045 tonearm coming


I've been searching for either a Victor UA-7082 or a UA-7045 tonearm ever since I purchased my Victor CL-P2 plinth with two arm boards.
The rear arm is almost ready to go, it's a Audio Technica ATP-12T mounted in a custom aluminum armboard. I also had to machine a bracket to add a Jelco JL-45 tonearm cueing device and a tonearm rest. This should be perfect for my low compliance DL-103.I have been looking at both models of the Victor arms and have posted WTB on several forums, watching Ebay but nothing nice has come up. So for the past month I have been keeping an eye out on the Japanese website Yahoo Buyee and finally saw something I liked. It's a clean looking UA-7045 that should work out nicely.
https://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/v741873067?_=cnZxVG5GZVlFQTA3VEZVTDBjQnRCS1RGYWtnTW1ZOTZORUVmb2R...=I won the auction this morning for $202.81, way cheaper than I've ever seen one of these go for. estimated shipping is around $50.00 via DHL. It takes up to two weeks for the seller to get the arm shipped to Buyee and they will inspect and repackage it for shipment via DHL. So in several weeks I'll have this in my hands.
Since I know the spindle to pivot distance I will machine an armboard for it in advance.
Anybody familiar with this series of arms knows all about the rubber damper in the counterweight stub that degrades and causes the dreaded tonearm droop where the weight starts hanging down.
There are two types of this series of arms, those that have the droop (most) and those that will develop it soon. Aging rubber and gravity never let up. Every arm will eventually have this problem.
I've talked to my friend Elliott about this as he had one of these arms for a short time. He sent me a sketch of a rubber piece that he made from hardware parts that he used to fix his. Between Elliott and the internet I found enough info to figure out how this comes apart but I'm not entirely happy with the fix. Since Victor can't supply the rubber dampers I've been thinking about possibly making a mold and casting them out of urethane. I have samples of urethane coming to me from a supplier so I can compare the hardness of the rubber bushing to the urethane samples to find a close matching durometer value.
The mold will be a simple affair, machined out of aluminum. I need to dig out a vacuum pump buried in my garage to see if it works and I found a vacuum chamber on Ebay for 50 bucks.
Once I get the arm I'll pull the stub off and get some critical measurements and work from there. I can even do a temporary fix on the stub until I have a decent result as I have never cast urethane before.Anyway, I'm very excited to be getting this tonearm and at least one member here (chakster) talks very highly of it.

BillWojo




billwojo
My current rig is a Victor CL-P2/TT-81/UA-7082 and I've been very pleased. It replaced a Technics SH15B1/SP-15/modded Rega RB250 and gives me both better sonics and much more flexibility. My counterweight droops a bit but I don't believe it degrades the sound; just lowers the counterweight towards the stylus, right? Regardless, it's a great setup and I think you'll like your UA-7045. What motor will you you be using?

David
Well it came with a nice TT 61, a rare unit only found in Japan it seems. Not quartz locked though. I started looking around and came across a recapped and serviced TT 71 for an awesome price so it sits in my plinth now. The specs on the TT 71 and TT 81 are the same for speed and wow and flutter so I figured it's good enough. I do love the digital speed readout on the TT 101 though.
The more I learn about Victor and the engineering that went into this series the more I like them. They really were on top of their game and were a big supplier to Micro Seiki and others as well.

BillWojo
Bill,

Congrats,

I was very impressed with the workings when I took the one I had apart before sending it back.

Not to send bad vibes, however, don’t be drilling any holes yet,

the thing could get destroyed, and even if perfect, you might find a great 7082 an hour from now.

Patience, until you have the bird in hand.

Your absolutely correct Elliott, it is an easy job to machine the hole in the armboard plate anyway. I need to find some more material to make a few extra armboard plates for the future. I DO want to find a UA-7082 arm down the road.
BillWojo
Bill, in my opinion, you are way overthinking this. I would just go to a good hardware store and find a tiny O-ring of the proper size that does the job. Although I have never yet replaced the rubber donut in my own 7045, I have seen that most good hardware stores have O-rings that would work. I see no need to be anal about casting a perfect replica.