Never Owned a Tube Amp and Want Advice


Hi All, 

I have never owned a tube amplifier before and am planning to purchase one with a minimum of 50 watts per channel to mate with 8 ohm 88 dbl speakers.

My hope is experienced audiogoners will share their expertise regarding how to approach this. While I realize listening is the best way to learn about sound and compatibility; I want to learn a better understanding about brands with less maintenance and longer tube life, how to decide between mono or stereo,can a newbie play with bias or is auto biasing a better first choice, etc.

I would also appreciate what to look for in selecting a used tube amp to identify one that might be in need of repair. For example, with solid state depending on the brand, capacitor replacement can be more of a concern. Any advice on what to look out for or ask about with used tube amps would be appreciated.

A big question I have is how to understand the relationship between power tubes like E34's, 120.s, etc. and, I guess the driver? tubes like 12au7's and 12at7's. That  is to ask which is more critical to the overall sound of the amp? FWIW, I routinely tube roll with my preamps.  

I 've read through a number of threads but maybe someone can point me to good ones I may have missed. 

Thanks for listening,

Dsper
dsper
A few tube amp suppliers claim a 2 ohm load capability but most of the websites I have reviewed are silent on this topic.

It depends on how the output transformer is configured at that load.   
Well, perhaps those low efficiency speakers will help you preserve your hearing longer in your life, avoid tinnitus, ... I never thought of it this way.

you can find much on the net, i.e. This site, scroll down some, says average Classical Concert is 90db, with momentary peaks of 120db.

http://www.audiodrom.net/en/as-we-see-it-tips-thoughts/74-realistic-volume-levels

this one, posted above, scroll down, shows sound level lessening by distance, IN OPEN SPACE

https://www.puiaudio.com/pages/speaker-power-and-distance

i.e. if you are 4 meters/13lf away, it is -12db. That is 4 meters FURTHER than 1 meter, so that is 5 meters/16lf away from face of speakers.

ignoring that the room’s surfaces will retain sound levels, or that there are two speakers: let’s do

some OPEN SPACE SINGLE SPEAKER math.

your speakers, 1 watt, 1 meter = 88db
sit 5m/16lf away -12db = 1w/5m/76db.
double the power in watts for each +3db sound level

to get to concert hall avg 91db, (5 doublings) math says you need 32wpc.
a 94db momentary peak will need 64wpc. (you mentioned 60wpc)
128wpc for 97db, keep doubling for each +3db peak

.........................................

Practically, the answers from people who have used low efficiency speakers with ____? wpc tube amps will give you the best indication, so tell us, or ask them:

room description
desired volume?
type of music, i.e. just loud peaks, or loud average?
length of listening sessions in time is also a big factor regarding hearing loss.


to get to concert hall avg 91db, (5 doublings) math says you need 32wpc.
a 94db momentary peak will need 64wpc. (you mentioned 60wpc)
The above explanation makes me think of another question, probably a dumb one. 

When I think of solid state, I understand that the continuous power rating is one thing and peak power supply is another.

My question is:

Is it true with tube amps that if an amp is rated at 60 wpc that is all you are going to get or do capacitors, power transformer, etc. come into play to allow higher peak power?

Thanks for listening,

Dsper


Most tube amps are "optimistically" rated.  That 60 watt tube amp might deliver that wattage at peak, but at 60 watts, it would be typically distorting quite a bit.  Tube amps simply do not do well in a numbers game.  

Because most tube amps are distorting quite a bit before reaching their "rated" output, a 60 watt amp should be considered more like a 30 watt amp.  But, even with your 88 db/w efficient speakers, you will mostly be operating below one watt of output anyway; only a few peaks might get close to 30 watts, and tube amps distort gracefully.

I think most people who are unfamiliar with tubes substantially overestimate how much power they will need.  Unless you have notoriously difficult to drive speakers, even modest tube amps can be made to work with your speakers.  If you have to keep the volume down a bit, that is just one of those compromises that one has to make with ANY piece of audio gear; none are perfect.

I suspect that the notion of "tube watts" being more powerful than solid state has to do with the subjective impression that good tube amps deliver--the sound is full, lively and engaging at substantially lower volume so one thinks the system is playing loud when it is not.
Everyone, I appreciate the input. Seems like I have to start listening and go from there!