Something Else I'm Wondering About

Ok, goto a larger, better cable, inside. What’s the difference?

Every manufacture worth his/her/their salt offers internal wire, cap, inductor, resistor, upgrades. Is it worth it to you? For them to do it, or you to do it? I’ve seen the insides of a lot of speakers, LOTS, and LOT.

You would be amazed at the crap that goes on INSIDE where you can’t see. Seldom are wired secured, seldom. Might be in one place, but not in another. Or bundled together, worse yet... Just floppin in the wind....I secure, and separate wires. 

Now, a larger, better cable to the speaker? Is there any difference?
BIGGER is not better by any means. Not big enough is a real problem, though.  BETTER quality, different concoctions, length, covers, terminal ends, armor, breakin, and routing, (the most important thing) for noise reduction. YES, all can make a BIG difference, to a point.

Night and day difference? Only in your head and if the cables you were running were that "BAD" to begin with. Like bad zip cord or something, not ZIP CORD, BAD zip cord, chewed on by rats or something.

You're not gonna turn a 50 year old Radio Shack Nova 6 speaker into a Magico G5 with a cable upgrade, ok...

Regards

+1 OHM
however, I have upgraded internal wiring to excellent benefit.


Recently, I picked up a pair of Open Baffle Emerald Physics 3.4s with external XOs, Unfortunately, the way the wire was configured in the open baffle prevented me from upgrading it, but after I listened to them with the similar crap wire jumpers between the binding posts and the XOs, I then upgraded to WireWorld OCC, which is designed for these purposes, the improvement over the OEM 20" jumpers was night and day

hth

You can't see the internal wiring so there is no need to use anything special. Most people do not open their speakers. The stuff people use externally is 99% cosmetic, 1% functional. You can get 99% of the best performance possible out of a twisted pair of adequate gauge the shortest length possible. The single most important factor is "the shortest length possible." This is one of the reasons why mono amps behind the speakers is a great upgrade.  Important clue. Keeping the speaker wire as short as possible is the idea which would put the amp directly behind the speaker with the rear of the amp facing the rear of the speaker. When you see a nice pair of $140,000 monoblocs on granite bases between the speakers for all to see you can assume this person's ego exceeds his desire for the best possible sound at least on a technical basis.
All my speakers are wired internally and externally with Kimber Kable, IMHO the best speaker cable you can buy. You can buy it in rolls and terminate your cables yourself with the best terminals suited to your system at an extreme savings. You can even cover them with a glittery sheith, install a walnut block over the divisions and tell your friends they cost $10,000. If they are audiophiles they will even believe you.

If you buy the expensive Kimber interconnects, they already come with the walnut block.

LOL if you could only see some of the concoctions ,I've come up with "INSIDE" those boxes, really, I've put some STUFF, in there..

Some really, weird sounding tweaks for sure, some really nice discoveries too.  Silver plated tungsten, wrapped with 4 strands of copper, two CW, two CCW. per inch, seems to be pretty special for the mids and highs...

HEAVY copper for the bottom/BASS USA made SOOW is perfect..Save your money.. 8-10-12/4 SOOW, serious good copper.. There is only TWO grades of copper, so you know. Good and BAD!!, ALL US made copper is GOOD... ALL of it... All domestic cable is 99.99% pure, unless otherwise specified... Alu/Clad, copper/Clad.

Regards