Rel B3 or JL Audio F110

Oh also I think the B-2 or B-3 are supposed to be better than the R's...

Another vote for the Rel (I have the B3) and want to add by replacing the stock Rel cable made the sub a world more musical. Much better attack and decay. I have a Nordost baseline made to Rel spec (there was a $35 up charge for the speakon connector).

Forgot to mention. Getting the timing/phasing right is the tricky part. I would assume the JL would be the same. On the Rel there is a phase switch 0 or 180 degrees. Then you have to physically move the sub closer or farther to get it right on. Once you get that right the crossover point and gain is pretty easy. You should not be able to hear where the sub bass is coming from.

Good Luck

for the Money the Emotiva 12 is very close ,and actually has better output from 40-60hz, under 30 the JL audio takes over
and the Emotiva is very decent at 1/4 the price that is saying alot , I would like to mention .I bought a solid aftermarket power cord from Signal cable a thick 10awg
and remember the cheap steel fuse must go , go to the Cable Co. and buy a Hifituning Silver fuse . Silver has 8x less resistance then a steel fuse .which means faster more articulate bass 100% guaranteed,the laws of physics don't lie with a sub current is very important !!

Kiza, I also have the M3 and two JL F110's with Usher BE-718 monitors. It works really well with the bass management feature built in to the amp and now I don't worry about the woofers in the monitors getting damaged when I play loud electronic music or other stuff with trumped up bass. It was a "set it and forget it" procedure when I put it together. I let the JL automatic adjustment system run its course with the supplied microphone and run them with their volume at the neutral or middle volume position and no other adjustments. I set the high pass filter on the M3 at either 60 or 80 Hz and after that no fussing necessary. Too easy.