Speakers Nominal Power handling/Amplifier

Since much has already been said, i’ll keep this brief.
First, Millercarbon hits the technical highlights. The exponential power relationship with volume is the primary reason though, why power ratings are overblown. This is because of the necessary corollary: if you did have, say 140 w/ch you’d only get a tiny volume increase. and at 280w a BIG amp) another small increase.
Your speakers will never play all that loud in a large room. But that may not really matter. If the room is small enough, and you listen at modest enough levels, all will be fine.
I am actually more leery about the overall quality of the Technics receiver; especially since inefficient mini monitors tend to be very equipment fussy. That said i know nothing first had about the Cantons.
As to speaker power: simply keep the amp below its level of audible distortion. The only way a modestly powered amp will damage a speaker is if you over-drive it. At the point of clipping (when the signal its the power supply rail and abruptly ends) a large % of high frequency (and awful sounding) distortion is generated, all of which goes to the tiny, fragile tweeter, which gets hot and says "later dude".
Under all other circumstances there is no issue whatsoever, except that, again, a modestly made receiver/integrated amp simply may not have the guts to sound the best.
Hope it works out well, trust your ears.
G
ps: sorry failed to keep it brief

When you are playing with maximum limits, here are the rough over engineered rules:

1) Use PEAK power handling value of a speaker and the RMS value of your amplifier.
2) An amplifier should typically be rated at an RMS power value at least about 1.5 times the peak handling capability of your speaker. Otherwise clipping may occur.

The general rule of thumb is that an UNDER powered amplifier is much more likely to damage a speaker than the other way round (especially if the amp does not have any clipping protection).

A 10 watt amplifier will EASILY destroy a 200 watt speaker instantly simply by clipping. The reverse is less likely to happen since you will have a bit more time to react to the sounds coming out of an overloaded speaker and turn it down before it does any damage. Clipping can destroy instantly but overpowering takes a little longer which gives you a bit more more time to react to turn your amplifier down.

The moral of the story is not to push the limits of the equipment you have.

OP, People talk about the quality of the watts, too, so there may be additional options besides high sensitivity speakers. https://trueaudiophile.com/phony-watts/

Good discussion and advise Thanks everyone for taking the time and interest to respond. 
 All "expensive" audio products(amps speakers in particular )I would hope have some form of clipping protection. In fact, I would think any manufacturer making expensive gear would do this on behalf of their consumers to do otherwise is to disrespect their consumer's investment. 
 As for me my entry system in my listening space plays reasonably loud on 90% of my music. However, on a poor recording like Led Zeppelin's (CDs) I do find myself pushing the volume up. I never really was concerned with playing loud but protection my gear and maximizing resolution. fyi I'm just 2 meters away from my speakers in a well damped room. 

Your speakers' sensitivity rating means that a mere 1 watt of input will produce 87 dB when measured from 1 meter away under test conditions (in an anechoic space). 87 dB is already pretty loud, but every doubling of distance from the loudspeaker under controlled test conditions results in a 6 dB drop in the speaker output. Let's say you sit 4 meters away, which means you've doubled the 1m distance twice with a theoretical drop-off of 12 dB.  You're still getting 75 dB from a single watt, even with those "inefficient" speakers.   

Now, for some people, with some tastes in music and volume preferences, in some rooms, even 75 dB might be loud enough ... IF we assume we don't need extra headroom for transient increases.  But we cannot assume that.  You might need (or want) an extra 15-20 dB headroom to handle those musical peaks.

Every 3dB increase in speaker output requires double the wattage. Those transient peaks (or just cranking up the volume a bit) might call for 6, 7, or 8 doublings. So if your speakers are nominally 8 ohms, then you might want an amp with a little more juice.  But it really depends on many factors. You're already ahead of the game if you like what you hear and don't notice any clipping. More watts, per se, probably won't widen/deepen the soundstage.  For that, I've found that speaker placement has the biggest impact.  The trade-off is that, if you bring them away from the walls (on stands) to deepen/widen the soundstage, then the bass impact will drop off. To compensate, you might want to try a small powered subwoofer.  Meanwhile, if you are sitting closer to the loudspeakers, that should let you get by with a little less volume.